20-07-2018     La Clusaz − Flumet     133 km


La Clusaz − Col du Merdassier − Col de la Croix-Fry − Thônes − Saint-Jean-le-Sixt − Le Petit-Bornand − Bonneville − Cluses
− Le Reposoir − Romme − Le Reposoir − Col de la Colombière − La Clusaz − Col des Aravis − Flumet

Breakfast is quite good too. Things are set out as if there will be a crowd of at least thirty guests (where I doubt there are more than six). I can store most of my luggage in the bike shed and am off for a day with many cols. The Route du Col de la Croix-Fry is a nice, , sunny but fresh starter. At an easy pace I pass the good-old youth hostel where I met my cycling mate Art, and feel a very lucky guy, a guy in the best of all worlds: Lovely weather, lovely road, lovely mountains, healthy, fit, lightweight, a whole nice day waiting . . . .

Friendly manager of "Le Gotty"

Perfect bike on a perfect morning

Sidestep to . . . .

Col de Merdassier

. . . .   with a lot of space around

With the Col de la Croix-Fry in view I turn left for about the only addition in this tour to my list of cols in the Alps, namely the Col du Merdassier. That's no big deal, as from the junction it's only 25 m up net. After a picture − I think I can see the road to the Aravis, but I must have been mistaken − I turn 180 degrees and return to the Col de la Croix-Fry. I put on my helmet, and indeed: What a descent! I did it only once in this direction, in 1993, in an étape that also started from La Clusaz/Les Étages, an étape that alternated between taking cols and taking shelters, and that included my one and only visit to the Col de l'Arpettaz, unfortunately in the foggy rain.

	I'm not the only one taking pictures		View to (Col du) Plan Bois
	Nice mountains		Nice tarmac

Good decision yesterday to skip that one; it would certainly have become past 9 p.m. to arrive at "Le Gotty"! I did the climb once from Manigod, during my one but last étape in 2003 and can't remember it was that steep, possibly because I came from the Col du Plan-Bois which was even steeper. I do remember I didn't have the guts then to turn right at the col to add the Col du Merdassier, also since I had no indication altogether of its statistics. On this Saturday morning many passionnés du vélo have chosen to attack the pass from the west, and for many it seems quite a struggle. I take it easy, even stop to make some pictures, the scenery is really gorgeous, and amazingly keep the speed below 60 km/h. From Manigod the slope is more gentle, and it flattens off completely during the last 2 km till Thônes. And do I do myself the punishment of riding the D909 to Saint-Jean-le-Sixt again? I do, and it's not as bad as yesterday; I'm much fresher and am carrying 10 kg less. In Saint-Jean I have possibly my first good French cappuccino and a lot of calories (disguised as pastry) on a full, sunny terrace where an older couple doesn't mind to share a table. Follows a steep km down (which I mind to keep in mind for later in the afternoon). The D12, I did it already from the north in 1985 (and that certainly wasn't the only time), I don't remember it was that beautiful, especially the first 500 m, when one looks into a deep, narrow valley.

	After the break . . . .		Gorgeous D12
	All along La Borne		. . . . . .

So narrow that I'm protected from the sun quite a bit. It is 'interesting' after some 10 km to see the steep road to the left, to the Col de Glières, the third steep climb of that quite hard day in 2003 (to be followed by the Col de la Forclaz from the north!). After that crossing the slope increases, and in no time I reach Bonneville. At home I had thought to make this day trip from La Clusaz via the Col de Glières (from the west!), Mont-Saxonnex, Col de Romme, Col de la Colombière. What was I thinking? Dreaming! The flat interlude till Cluses is a necessary intermezzo, but gets a bit less boring as for the most part it is over a piste cyclable, and from Marignier I ride up with a local. He informs me the road to the Col de Romme is closed, which is a pity, and at the end he drops me off at a nice restaurant/pâtisserie/salad bar. A good place indeed, and also located suitably for the exit to the south. I'm amazed at the impossible behaviour of a teenage girl that sitting at the next table with her parents and is totally into her phone (and that Mum and Dad don't say a word about it). Cluses 470 m, Colombière 1605 m, with a sidestep (350 m up in 6.5 km) to Romme, that's what's in store for the next two hours. The road to Romme, the one from the Tour the France, a steep, tiny road along a high wall of rock, looks daunting, but alas, due to a collapsed slope it's impossible to pass. The first half of the climb, till Le Reposoir, is quite relaxed, the sidestep to Romme a bit harder. And also, alas, clouds are coming in.

Piste cyclable between Bonneville and Cluses

Quiet sidestep to Romme

With quite a good view

Back on the D4

And from this side it's by far not as daunting. I try to find a a col sign, but there is none, and return to the main road to the Colombière. A few sharp hairpins in Le Reposoir, and yeah, I'm going. I try to keep riding in a relaxed way, and slow as I am I still pass the two slowest of a group of Germans, which gives me a boost. The slope gets the highest at the end, and in my lowest gear I creep the last two km till the summit. Great views at the end. Good! Perfect! The views to the other side are even better. And the descent is dazzling; not very steep and not very technical (and still below 60 km/h). Great!

	The summit (Col de la Colombière) is near		A few views back: (I)
	(II)		(III)
	Descent from		. . . . .   Col de la Colombière

The lowest point is at Le Bornand-Le Villaret, and back in Saint-Jean-le-Sixt I have already regained 50 m. A beer on the same terrace as in the morning, again sharing a table, a bite from the shop next door, and up in the saddle again for the last climb. Not a very hard one. And definitely easier than yesterday. The welcome at "Le Gotty" is heartily. I text to my hosts that I won't make it to their place before seven. The last 4 km of 6% to the Col des Aravis, in the early evening, with all my panniers attached, are okay. I wonder if I will get a glimpse of the Mont-Blanc, and am treated with a bit more than that. Awesome! The descent with the round bends is great fun too. This is really the day of the descents!

	Bis   (i.e. still ↘ Colombière)		And up again to La Clusaz
	And up further to the Col des Aravis		Relaxed evening ride
	Through peaceful environment		Up at the Col des Aravis

Wow

Wow!

Final descent

Around and around

Around 7:15 p.m. I reach Flumet, and owing to Claire's clear route information immediately get onto the right (new-graveled and steep) Route Panoramique. My hosts, the general practicioners Claire and Jean-Nicholas, after a day of walking, are busy in their garden. I'm offered drinks, a meal on the terrace, and a warm hospitality. And a lot of cycling info. Claire recommends the Col des Cyclotouristes (closed for cars) close to Villard-sur-Doron (I have been close when I stayed in Molliesoulaz, but didn't know of its existence, in 2012) and the Colle San Carlo (which is on my to-do-list for the day after tomorrow), but advises against the climb to the Signal de Bisanne from the Doron, asserting it will be too much with the rest of the program. And Jean-Nicholas reads on the internet about l'Étape du Tour that takes place tomorrow from Albertville, via the Cormet de Roselend (my route!) till Val Thorens. Well, they (1400 riders?) start from 7 a.m. onwards and will all hopefully (for them!) have passed when I descend from the Col de Saisies.