|
Breakfast (buffet) at the usual time, 7:15h. Later a few other guests arrive, keeping the 1.5 meter distance. Quite an ambitious last stage in the Pyrenées is waiting, a big zig-zag will take me to the Aude. The 'issue' of today: Where to get my food and drinks? First the regular climb to the Col de Chioula, with reasonable temperatures still. In the beginning nice views over Ax, higher on impressive views over the Ariège valley, with deep down the N20 meandering to Andorra.
Ax-les-Thermes
|
|
Ariège valley
|
|
Ariège valley |
|
Further up to
|
|
the Col de Chioula
|
|
The corniche between Col de Chioula and Col de 7 Frêres |
|
Hell of a nice morning
|
|
Junction to unknown territory
|
Around the col the area is quite open, and the road stays high for quite a while. In Prades there's a restaurant. It's a bit early, but hey, otherwise I risk a detour via Belcaire. Pity: there's nothing to eat (well, not before midi). However, a friendly man, writing (his diary?), tells me there should be a small épicerie in Camurac. So I drink my coca cola and set off in that (good) direction. It's a lovely morning, and it's a relaxed intermezzo on the corniche till the Col de 7 Frêres. In Camurac there is indeed a shop, and I leave with some more coca cola and two pains aux raisins. At the village pump I also have my bottle refilled (not foreseeing it will be the last refill for more than 40 km). Shortly after Camurac I leave the route des crêtes for the descent into the Pays de Sault. First the road goes up, what I hadn't expected, and then there is a long, very nice descent. It's a tiny road, going through woods alternated with meadows, very quiet, very beautiful, which brings me to the D107, along the Rebenty.
Quite a descent
|
|
to the Rebenty
|
And a very beautiful
|
|
quiet, tiny road it is
|
There's an interesting clue halfway Mérial and La Fajolle, two villages without any facilities. Twelve years ago I accidentally (in the midst of my cyclingwise low years) passed this road with a compatriot from the campground in Axat, where I stayed with my two daughters, on rented bikes, though halfway he gave up. I remember the quiet road, the cow dung (no signs of cows in 2021), and also the slightly disappointing views. I have no clear idea about distances and altitudes. The only info are the indicators of the kms along the D107. I measure the time between those (that function of my odometer is still working), and it feels as if the second half is less steep than the first half. Which is quite stiff. Only during the last 500 meters or so does the environment open up.
Fajolle
|
|
Défilé d'Adouxes
|
Tiny road up
|
|
no cow dung?
|
And finally . . . .
|
|
the environment opens up
|
|
|
Not much up there
|
|
Steep view back |
|
|
Steep view down |
|
As was to be expected, there is nothing at the summit (apart from two motor cyclists). The road on the south side remains quite small, the environment is much more open, and the grades are high. It's a challenging and exhilarating descent. I get back onto the D25 some 5 km from where I left it a few hours ago. I don't want to go 'back' to Ascou for food, and hope to make it till the ski station of Ascou. According to Google Maps the restaurant there should be open (with a proviso) since 9 a.m. In my memory the middle part of the climb to the Port/Col de Pailhères is relatively easy (5 till 7% or so). But I'm mistaken. And it's warm. So I have to take refuge from the sun and the effort for a quarter of an hour, just on the side of the road in the shade (and, I reckon, somewhat longer in the hoped for restaurant). Pfft. From then on it's quite a struggle. Shortly before Ascou 'Haut' I think I spot a restaurant, but it's a kind of nature center. Further on I halt a rider that is descending and he is not very supportive: No there is no restaurant at the ski station, there isn't even the possibility to get some water, and no, he is not willing to give me some of his water (while the man is going down!?). And last part of the recent warnings: the last 5 km till the summit, which start about here, will have a grade of 9% on average. A little further I do check the restaurant and indeed: I'm on my own. Well, slowest gears, meter by meter, don't try to get overheated. What helps: there are some veil clouds. And I realize: This is the first time I climb the Col the Pailhères with luggage (and it's my seventh visit overall, which makes the Pailhères my most visited Pyrenée ever). Slowly, slowly I creep to the shining cue of parked cars and caravans that marks the end of this undertaking. However, it doesn't, I have to struggle my way up (my final convulsions?) a few hundred meters more. And finally I get there. This climb and the climb to the Col de Pause were really the hardest of this trip; I don't think the Mont-Ventoux will give me more pain. Still (as in 2003, as in 1989) there are no facilities around the pass. An open shed, where I expected to find horses, but nowadays they are cows.
And third time up
|
|
The final phase
|
Still pretty
|
|
And the next hairpin bend
|
Cabin at the col
|
|
And another challenging descent
|
|
Challenging indeed |
|
Long, long descent
|
|
Halfway the 'staircase'
|
The views, especially to the serpentine road to the east are wonderful. As is the descent. Come to think of it, only once out of the seven encounters with the Col de Pailhères did I descend to Ax-les-Thermes. I still can't stop making photographs, especially in the beginning, but during the second half I try to brake as little as possible. Down in Mijanès it is really hot, 35 degrees or so, I gather. Time for an ice cream, but I have to content myself with cold coca cola. Serves me well; I'm just quite satisfied with what I accomplished today! The drink(s) is served by a lady in her seventies, which I barely manage to understand (which holds two-ways). I make two positive phone calls: The first to the Vrienden op de Fiets in Carpentras, which seems to be run by an English couple. The woman, Stephanie (or Steffany) is very friendly, and asks whether I would like to have dinner as well. Which I do. The second call is to Cycletours, the bus company, to make sure (in these uncertain times, with covid code red again for the Netherlands) that they will pick me up indeed from Suze-la-Rousse. Which they will, though alas, again I'm the only passenger to board there. The bus is only half full (what I sort of expected, with so many fellow passengers two weeks ago that would cycle home), which is nice too. Cooled down sufficiently I continue my route, with first four steep kms down to Usson-les-Bains. Beautiful descent, with a beautiful view onto Château d'Usson one of the many (remants of) châteaux Cathares in the area.
View back up to Port de Pailhères
|
|
Mijanes
|
|
Château d'Usson |
|
Château d'Usson (II)
|
|
Gorges de l'Aude
|
Gorges de l'Aude
|
|
And again
|
Gorges de l'Aude
|
|
Super stage
|
Clue de l'Aude
|
|
Gorges de l'Aude
|
|
Railway viaduct close to Axat
|
Follows an exhilarating ride, still some 450 m down, along the Aude, grand, spectacular, and not only because of the Gorges de Saint-Georges. I pass under the viaduct of the 'ghost train' (excursion in 2009) and reach Axat well according to schedule. I insert another break for something healthy, yogurt and fruits. Looking back it's quite a miracle I wasn't hit by a 'hunger knock' that day. I have received an incredibly long e-mail from the woman of the bed and breakfast in Quillan. It appears there is no one there to hand me the keys and lead me around. However, when I text she replies that she will send a caretaker, at 7 p.m.. The remaining 12 km till Quillan, still along the Aude, are still pretty (and) impressive.
The Aude
|
|
between Axat and Quillan
|
still pretty
|
|
and impressive
|
I reach my place for tonight early enough to do some shopping (too much again) and still be in time for caretaker Gill. The house where I will stay is right on the border of the Aude. I have a chat with a friendly couple from Germany, am too late to have dinner right across the street (complet) so have to walk a bit for a meal. I find me a table on a terrace with a bunch of noisy students (I guess) from Holland.
I want to try the cassoulet, but change my order when the girl that serves warns me that 'local course' will take quite some time to prepare. The spaghetti gorgonzola tastes good as well. The sun is already setting when I get back to "Château View" at the Place de la République. Where, on the second floor, I do turn on the big fan. After six mountain stages I'm looking forward to a less demanding stage tomorrow. And worry a bit about the (bike on the) train.
|
Well earned socks? |
|
|
