18-07-2015     Valle d'Alesani → Ghisoni   91 km       for route click here

Breakfast is set ready in the kitchen (when?), and we find anything we need. It clearly helped that I talked to the caretaker of the gîte last night, the caretaker that also appeared to be the cook, convincing her that randonneurs be they à pied or à vélo need a more nutricious meal than what she put on our table. Around eight we leave under a clear blue sky, comme toujours, one of the many nice things of Corsica in July.

	Almost ready for take-off		Immense view to the other side of the valley
	Down to the Alesani   (High up: Valle d.'A.!)		Early morning pig
	And up again		on the other side
	Another incredibly   . . . .		. . . .   nice morning
	The same incredibly   . . . .		. . . .   nice morning
	Still the same   . . . .		Valle d'Alesani seen from across/above
	Where we're heading for		Where we were yesterday

First a 2 km descent, in the shade of the mountain side − we could have put on our tracksuits − to the river Alesani. On the other side we have to get up a bit more than we went down, but WHAT a nice road: small, curvy, quiet, beautiful panoramas, greenness all around. It's just HEAVEN on earth. We pass several villages with (to our eyes) Italian names: Piazzali, Novale, Pietra-di-Verde. In one of the bends the road is completely blocked by a big flock of goats. I have some old bread for them, and have them pushing around me. Unfortunately for them I'm not Jesus at the Lake of Galilea.

	LOADS of   . . . .		. . . .   GOATS

Loads   . . . .

. . . .   and   . . . .

. . . .   loads

The road is going up, going down, stays more or less on the same level till the village last mentioned. From there it's a 5 km climb over a lovely tiny curvy road along a mountainside covered with trees and ferns. The perfect morning étape ends with a long, irregular descent to, alas, the N198 − there is just one north-south connection through the mountains, but that would take too much distance and climbing. At one junction I'm a bit confused: on the map Talone seems straight on, but the sign points sharply to the right. It appears there are two villages that share the name.

	Such a   . . . .		. . . .   bloody nice road
	. . . .		. . . .   AWESOME !!

Today we stay on the route nationale only 9 km. Halfway, in Aléria, we have very good pastry, again! The good pastry may well be the only positive thing about there is to say about these villages along the coast. Even in the shade on the terrace it's very warm. It makes us hesitate to get up and walk into the sun again, it's so hot! The supermarket is close by, and after ten minutes of coolness we mount our Kogas. We cross another important river, the Tavignano, the river we already crossed near Corte. The N198 is quickly left (to the right, i.e. inland). Follows an almost straight stretch of 10 km, straight back to the mountains, during which we gain the first 100 m in altitude (where we have to go up from practically 0 m to around 650 m).

Well earned calories

Back to the mountains

Apart from the heat, the speed of the cars that pass by makes it not a very comfortable ride. We have a short rest in Maison Pieraggi in what seems like a bus shelter, with two men that look a bit like tramps. We soak our t-shirts at the weak village pump. It's so bloody warm! From Maison Pieraggi we follow a kind of corniche road like yesterday to Saint-Antoine. And there the fun/climbing(/harder work) starts again. We follow the river Orbo, in which they built two dams with only 4 km in between.

			Back in the mountains
	The lower lake		View into the défilé

The first lake is easily reached − well, it does take a lot of sweat, in the sun it must be 40 °C at least − around which the energy producing activities are clearly visible. After this lower lake the slope increases, and the part through the impressive Défile de l'Inzecca contains the steepest parts of the climb. Just before a tunnel we have a short break at a very welcome fontaine, and after the tunnel we are above the upper lake. Follows an even km, after which the grades will stay more gentle. We try the sidestep to Sampolo, for a restaurant, but we soon retrace our steps and have a sandwich on the bridge over the Orbo. The last 8 km we are back in the mountains again! The curvy road climbs through a rocky pine forest, with beautiful glimpses to the river (several swimming opportunities! − something for tomorrow?) and the mountains, the forms of which remind me of the Dolomites.

	Start of the défilé		Gorge(ou)s
	Nicely carved road		Enya still on a higher level
	Around the end of the défilé		The best (and the worst) is behind us
	The upper lake		And time for a break
	Enya goes ahead		Still QUITE nice
	Nice   . . . .		. . . .   and warm

In Ghisoni, where we arrive around 6:30 p.m., the gîte, part of the "Bar Central", is easily found. We are welcomed by a friendly, older, slightly limping barkeeper, who recommends the large dormitory because it will be cooler. Moreover, it opens to some kind of balcony with a nice view to 'the Dolomites', and for tonight we will be its only occupants (apart from our bikes). All in all a beautiful though quite hard day; Enya is thinking of a day of rest tomorrow, but on the other hand doesn't want to 'miss' a nice tour through this sensational environment. We have a pizza on the balcony with many card players and when we make ourselves ready for bed, don't bother to find the bathroom upstairs. It appears difficult to find accommodation for the next two nights, preferably at the same location; only the fourth trial − obviously not our first choice in view of the stage to Bonifacio − leads to success.

	Ghisoni,		village in the Corsican Dolomites
	Tastes good!		Our roommates for tonight