26-07-2015     Coti-Chiavari → Zicavo   76 km
      for route click here

(Very) early morning view

Coti-Chiavari

Breakfast at 7, alas no muesli, but we do have (our own) melon. Today it's no buffet, but we are served by the same kind (and pretty) waitress. One of the best stages of the Tour de Corsica is awaiting us. The last few days there have been thunderstorms in the mountains, a tourist was struck by lightning and got killed, but the hotel manager looks at the sky above the sea and expects a day without rain today. He also informs us that for the rest of the D55A, including two cols, not much climbing will be asked for, the hotel already being situated at 500 m above sea level. Indeed it's an easy-going, quiet, gorgeous ride of some 12 km to the second of those passes, the Col de Chenova (629 m). What a relief/contrast after/with the D55 yesterday!

	Interesting "foot" rock		Last view of Ajaccio (for three days)
	Goats'		intermezzo

Every now and then we have views down to the bay, and from this great distance we see two large ferries approach Ajaccio. One worry, Enya's saddle troubles are getting worse. We try everything today: wearing two cycling shorts over one another, pain killers (paracetamol) changing the position of the saddle, even changing the saddles (mine is harder, and that may help). All things work a little for a short while, but in this respect the stage remains a struggle. Which is a GREAT pity. So at the end we will shorten/ease the étape a bit.

	Happy two		Beautiful morning
	. . . .		Cognoccoli-Montichi

Three km after the pass just mentioned we reach the slightly more important D302 ('yellow' on the map, where the D55A is white) on which we descend 500 m, passing Cognoccoli-Montichi, a multi-leveled village, which brings us down to the Taravu. With this we descend from a forested environment into more open surroundings. We follow the river for some 3 km, then cross it and leave it for some 30 km.

	Gorgeous surroundings		River Taravu, the backbone of this stage
	Back to the mountains		Bicchisano

An 'interesting' (on the map), sinuous, again quiet and easy-going road takes us some 400 m up to Bichisssano, and, for pastry, another 50-100 m up to Petreto-Bichissano. It's an absolutely wonderful day. Our third sunny Sunday ;-)   We share two smoothies (coco-mangue and coco-ananas) on an ivy-topped terrace in Petreto.

Two smoothies

On an ivy-topped terrace

And I catch up on the Tour de France − the edition of 2015 is not that interesting, even yesterday's exciting last mountain stage didn't change that. Between the two villages we twice pass the same km of the N196, and wonder where all the traffic is; it seems SO much quieter than around Bonifacio and around Propriano. Of the next 18 km, to Olivèse, apparently along the (wide) valley of the Taravu (the river is 2-4 km from us) we enjoy every minute. Corsica, we love it.

	Nice		Nice
	Nice		Point of making a decision

In Olivèse we take a moment's rest at the village fontaine to decide about the rest of the stage. Olivèse is at the lower end of the 'interesting' route to (almost) the Col de Vaccio that looks so attractive on the map (and also caught my eye when we passed it above, six days ago). Twice I ask information from (the same) men at a bar nearby, and they warn us it will mean quite a climb. Besides it has become quite warm. Given Enya's conditon we decide it's better to skip it. After a game of toepen we continue the lovely/beautiful D757.

	Gorgeous		surroundings
	Better keep your hands		On the handle bar

Some 3 km further we cross a side stream of the Taravu, and from the presence of parked car we conclude it should be possible to have a swim. We park our bikes, fill a bag with bathing garments (and food) and set off (on foot) in search of a path to the river. It's quite a hike; the river stay 10-20 meters below us for long while. After at least 150 m we look down to a most heavenly pool. Around it we observe man-built stone piles, so it should be possible to get there. Then we get to a point where it looks dangerous (especially on sandals!) to continue. A couple just in front of us return: the woman thinks it's too risky. Shortly after this passage, being very careful, we can get into the fast flowing river.

	A place to swim		takes quite a walk
	Quite a walk		How to get to the water?
	To that nice pool?!		Risky walk

The pool is 20 meters downstream, and we are afraid if we descend we won't be able to get back to our stuff against the strong current (it's unclear how deep the water is), so we have to restrict this swim to a dip standing still. When we have a sandwich a Dad with two daughters arrives, also in search of an access to the pool. They return, and when we return we notice they have succeeded! Alas, for us it's too late now.

Risky!

Walk walk walk

Cautious descend

Wet my toes

Victory ;-)

Over the last 7 km to Bains-de-Guitera, to our regret the condition of the road is quite bad − only a wider stretch of some 2 km has a good road surface. The surroundings remain gorgeous, as they do during the last 4.5 km to Zicavo, during which we have to gain quite some altitude. Zicavo is located VERY beautifully against the GREEN mountain side.

	Two views from		down in the stream
	How did they get there ?!		On the walk back to our bikes

Absolutely wonderfully

located Zicavo

We enter it from another side than last week, and come across another supermarket, open on Sunday (!) with a very friendly shopkeeper. First we have an ice cream, then we buy some groceries for the evening. We arrive at "le Paradis" around seven, surprising the lady of the house (Louise), who had not expected us anymore. She's a bit worried also, being unexperienced as to vegetarian cooking, or so she says. However, she prepares us the most delicious zucchini soup (with zucchinis and fresh coriander from the garden), followed by a pizza (fresh tomatoes!) and a delicious salad with potatoes, and as dessert a compôte aux pruneaux − quite exceptionally something Enya doesn't like. But even without that, much more food is put on the table than we two can manage to stow away!

Pictures of the terrace

of gîte "Le Paradis"