28-07-2015     Zicavo → Bastelica   60 km
      for route click here

Breakfast without the Belgians. Louise is complaining about the time we are living in today: in earlier times all things were better (e.g. bread). We leave with an extra layer (over our t-shirts): it's only 16°C. Gorgeous environment, gorgeous morning, like so many of the preceding mornings, and alas, for the last day but one. We start with quite a descent to Guitera-les-Bains, a ride that doesn't warm us. The sequel does, the nice road (D83) through Corrano (not Cozzano) and Zécavo (not Zicavo) is mostly uphill, till the highest point, the Col de Granaccia (865 m) after which the remaining km till Santa-Maria-Sicche are mostly downhill.

	Glorious morning		!!!
	The orange		couple

Pigs everywhere

Boca di

Sunny descent

Coffee time, unfortunately without pastry (in that respect the Cévennes and the Alpes are definitely to be preferred). An older cyclist that takes place two tables away has an important instruction for us: to wear a helmet is pas obligatoire mais indispensable. His companion wears hers even on the terrace!

Santa-Maria-Sicche

Giant peach

Double precautions

When we ride out of the town without having 'scored' any food we return (descend) and indeed find what we are looking for (yoghurt for lunch). We also buy two giant peaches. And Enya puts on two cycling shorts over each other (alas too). We climb to the N196, 17 km more to the north than where we crossed it two days before. Another 4 km uphill bring us to another col (de Saint-Georges, 747 m), where a nice (from the outside) gîte is located (which had been one of the options for the last night).

The descent, with views as far as the bay of Ajaccio are surprisingly and impressively beautiful (as is confirmed by Enya, in general not a great fan of N-roads). Near Cauro, at the lowest point of the day (372 m) we leave the N196 for a WARM ride through the Prunelli valley to today's destination Bastelica, after which the valley continues quite a bit further/higher. Even during this hottest time of the day we dare take off our t-shirts for half an hour. All in all the road goes up 400 m in 20 km, but the uphill sections are interspersed with short descents, so it feels like it's going up considerably more. We do need a break, and take it near a fontaine on a (hard) low wall. The ants entertain us with their transportation system (we feed them raisins and yoghurt).

	Warm ride up through the Prunelli valley		Some last sun bathing
	But not for too long		Wakeful parents

We pass several small bocca's, and Bastelica doesn't show itself from afar. But when it does: what an amazing location it fills, with high mountains all around, including the famous Monte Renoso (2352 m). It's 3.30 p.m., we have time for the col with the nice name Scalella, but unfortunately Enya doesn't feel fit enough for that. Signs all around mention the Gîte Chez Paul, which lies 2 km further (along the road to the Scalella Pass, I guess), but I have reserved two beds in the chambre d'hôtes "U Sampiero". One side of the place is a bar/restaurant, where we have a beer and a coke (and feel very observed). The hotel is run by an older Italian (83 years old) and his wife. They make us certainly feel welcome, are very friendly, hope we will have dinner there as well, but we do not expect vegetarian specials (and another drawback: we would have to eat inside). The hotel breathes a faded grandeur, but the shower is great (the first in three days!), and as I said, we do feel welcome here. We go around the town expecting to find at least one souvenir shop: there's even a babyish tourist train, however we cannot do the business we want. Also, apart from Chez Paul and U Sampiero there seems to be no other restaurant around.

Like father like sun (?)

View from our last room!

Enya takes a nap (or at least spends some time lying on her bed), while I make a walk to the other side of the (small) town to see if there is any other accommodation to have dinner. A local tells me there's a small restaurant that is possibly preferable to U Sampiero (and that Chez Paul is definitely fine). The restaurant 'down by the river ' opens a little later. The owner (I guess) is very friendly, admires us for our cycling expedition and for sticking to our table outside (we must admit it's again a fresh evening). Dinner is okay for Enya and quite good for me. The desserts (Carlotte ta-ta-ti ta-ta-ta) are delicious. And at the end the boss undercharges us! At the first instance Enya has to pay only (ca.) € 38,− for two three-course dinners! We walk back, in the dark, under a star filled sky, feeling rather melancholic. Our last night in Corsica.

Last dinner   (bronzed couple)

Last dessert