11-08-2014     Saint-Sauveur – Sospel    110 km

A meagre breakfast since yesterday evening during the short/hurried stop in the local shop (which to my surprise was open on Sunday evening – it is probably as much a shop as a social meeting place) I hadn't thought about that. It appears someone has left some instant coffee (that friendly lady from Nice?), and I have just one small 'unit' of yoghurt and some coconut cookies (not the ones from Nootdorp) left. It's not wise to leave without any food, so I pay a visit to the local bakery, where I meet a group of Australian cyclists buying their favorite pastries (and coffee), their preparation for the Bonette. Beautiful morning through a beautiful part of the Tinée valley. Nice views back to Saint-Sauveur (which quickly disappears) and the road to the Col de la Couillole and Roure. Also I notice another huge screeslope/collapsed mountain – surely all these giants will be washed to the see too, eventually . . . .   Then the turn to the left, away from the Tinée, for the first two steep (9%) kms to the Col de Saint-Martin, one of the roads that was so clearly visible from the other side of the valley yesterday.

Peer and Angelique

Collapsing mountain side

View back to Roure and the road to the Col de la Couillole

Steep beginning

Road to Ilonse/Col de la Sinne

Steep view down to the Tinée.   Woww!

The 5 km through the Tinée valley and this first part are in the shade of the mountains, but soon I turn into a valley to the east and the sun starts to warm me up. In 2008, without luggage, it was unforgettable gift, a surprise also, since twice before I hadn't noticed its beauty. Today it's less special, and I go at a lower speed. At the end, with a half empty stomach I'm counting down the last kms till the summit; the road info is quite thorough again (the last km but one is the third km of 9%), and this summit comes a little earlier than I expect it.   I manage it (= the whole climb) without a break.

Nice but not very noteworthy climb   . . . .

. . . .   to Col de Saint-Martin

View back, shortly before the summit

Coca cola with a view

	The break takes place   . . . .		. . . .   between two tunnels
	And the views to Saint-Martin   . . . .		. . . .   are as fantastic as ever
	Nice (short) descent too		. . . . .

The panorama over Saint-Martin-sur-Vésubie is as spectacular as ever. All is well today! For a moment I consider including the road to Le Boréon, and see what the road to the (unpaved?) Col de Salèse is like, but quickly decide I shouldn't overdo it; the Col de Turini is already quite something too. Coffee break in Saint-Martin, after an unsuccessful visit of the local bookshop. The barman in the first café has a bad day (or is the 'welcome' I receive there normal in this part of the country?), so I choose a better place to have my coffee (and my left-over pastry from Saint-Sauveur). From there the descent downstream along the Vésubie continues, I vaguely remember how I suffered here in 1994, after the unexpectedly trying (and warm) Col d'Andrion. Six years ago I attacked this same pass from this (unpaved) side, today I try to see where the pass is located, in which I do not succeed, and after the junction to Roquebillière – in my original plans my last sleeping place – the mountain village Bollène-sur-Vésubie comes into view.

	View backup   . . . .		. . . .   to Col de Saint-Martin
	Two sunny bridges . . . .		. . . .   over the Vésubie

The three km up to Bollène are reasonably steep, over a winding road with a lot of shade. That helps on this warmest day so far – I've been waiting for that! The road first circles around the center of Bollène, and I can see part of the sequel lying there, nicely curled around a mountain, waiting for me. I worry a bit too, as it is quite a climb, from Bollène it's 920 m up in 12 km, and it's quite warm. I have a short break first, to gather some courage, have a drink, and get going for my last col de 1ère catégorie (ranked about as high/hard as the Col d'Izoard).

	View up from Bollène-sur-Vésubie		Past   Bollène-sur-Vésubie
	Promising start   . . . .		. . . .   through beautiful environment
	Those lacets seen from below		Slightly disappointing picture of the well-known lacets
	From there it is mostly trees		I did it!

Somewhere along the way, I think it was in a gîte, a cyclist told me that one section of the road to the Col de Turini, with four rounded bends on top of each other, often figures on the front page of cycling magazines. It does also figure on the wall in my restroom at home. The beginning of the climb is nice, with views back onto Bollène and views up into the mountains. Most of the time the speed fluctuates around 9 km/h, there is no information along the road, and I'm not sure at what mileage I left Bollène. Then comes the part with the 'famous' bends, for which I do not find the spot for the ideal picture (and I don't want to get off my bike), and then to my surprise I ride into the woods, which is a bit disappointing. Indeed without a stop I reach the top, where four roads come together, and there is ample catering activity, so a lot of people up there as well. I have a chat with two Italians, and get some information about the Col du Brouis: facile. Time for a beer to celebrate this historic event. The barman tells me the climb I just finished is classified hors catégorie. The descent is slightly disappointing too – well, I suppose I just expected too much. I'm in the woods most of the time.

	Descent through the forest		Trees, trees, trees
	Notre-Dame de la Menour		Notre-Dame de la Menour
	And then the views around   . . . .		. . . .   get better

Only after N.D. de la Menour the valley of the Bévéra gets me really enthusiastic. It is long descent, almost without an end. In Sospel, 1300 m lower then the pass, it is really warm. With the help from a beautiful girl at the tourist office I find hotel "des Étrangers", which has one or more dormitories comme gîte, and check in before 4 o'clock – the woman at the reception is surprised: vous aviez dit entre 5 et 7!?  I visit the local Spar supermarket, and refuel in the village park. Time enough to add the Col de Brouis!

Sospel

I climb this one with really light luggage – only the pannier on the handle bar, and wearing sandals – and after three km fear I'm going to regret having left my rain coat in the hotel. I decide to risk it (let's see what happens ;-), and with an unusually high speed – the condition is absolutely top again! – pass the two Italians 'from the Turini'. The climb, 500 m up in 10 km, in Estaing I looked up to an elevation gain like that with some fear, today it does not offer any difficulty, and the descent is quick and easy.

Some energy left   . . . .

. . . .   for the Col de Brouis

One of the Italians

Last hotel

I'm the first to have dinner, a lovely dinner, very 'young' courgettes, with their yellow flowers wrapped around some white fish fillets, and the waiter promises me more fried rice with vegetables if I happen to have a large appetite. Again there has been talk of roommates, but no one shows up. In the evening I stroll around Sospel feeling lonely. The terraces are full with dining people, I don't find a bar where I think I might feel okay and meet people. I discover a Mexican-like church, and stroll back to the hotel, have a beer in the lobby, by myself, and go to bed.

12-08-2014     Sospel – Nice     99 km

Solitary breakfast, one of the very few this year, and around 8:45 I'm ready to roll. Very nice weather!! Having accomplished the Col du Brouis yesterday I can now add another sidestep to the east, which means three km of climbing to the Col de Vescavo (477 m), never heard of (neither seen mentioned on any map) almost on the Italian border. The views with a railway bridge over the river Bévéra at the bottom (I can hardly say 'deep down') are very nice. For such a low altitude, it gives the impression I'm actually much higher, and also when looking back the road close to the pass seems quite high up. Nice starter!

From my room it looks like a nice day

My bike had a roommate

Nice starter!

Great descent! . . . .

. . . . for such a 'small' col

The road to the Col du Brouis, looking so high

The 'Mexican' church in Sospel

In Sospel I make a photo stop for the 'Mexican' church, and then continue for the last climb up to 1000 m, namely the Col de Braus (only 2 m higher than that). It's quite a relaxed ride, 650 m up from Sospel. It's the first time I do it from this side, well, until the Col de Saint-Jean that is. The best moment is when (I think) I can look far into the valley of the Bévéra and think I can recognize the 'V' in the mountains at Moulinet, but also the views down to Sospel and the views up to the 'interesting' road are nice. It's fun! Before eleven o'clock I'm on the top (10:45 my camera says).

	Next 'project'   ( + final destination )		Smooth and warm

Good-looking road

Highest point of today

For some time I stay high in a dry landscape, and after the junction to the Col de l'Orme and Col de l'Ablé the last 'helmet worthy' descent becomes serious. There's a part with eight straight road sections right above each other, but I don't think that at the two places where Mr. Michelin indicates 15% the road is really that steep (also I remember I did not 'feel' it like that in 2008). First the scenery is quite open, further down the road leads through a gorge, after which a nice view to L'Escarène presents itself.

	Road to Col de l'Ablé		Part with all the hairpins
	Halfway this part		Impressive scenery, also during stage 24!
	L'Escarène photographed twice		. . . . from almost the same point

I do some shopping (food mostly, but also a postcard for my bicycle repairman) in hot L'Escarène. Yesterday evening I spotted a very tiny road connecting the D2204 and the Col des Banquettes, which starts some 2 km after L'Escarène. At the start this road is quite steep and very narrow. According to the map there's only one small village, called Très along this road; actually there are several mini-villages and isolated houses. On the narrow road the (local?) car drivers are very gentle: more than once a driver puts his car to a standstill to let me pass. The road goes up for quite a while (altitude??), before it curls around a mountain to enter a more open valley, from which I guess I can see the Mediterranean. I'm not sure, the faraway views are a bit hazy (and far indeed).

First view to the Mediterranean   (I guess)

Long journey through (almost) no man's land

Look what I survived!

Other route to Col des Banquettes

	Quiet, warm, beautiful		Hazy hill of Sainte-Agnès
	Hazy Sainte-Agnès		Closer view of hazy Sainte-Agnès

The road goes down to connect to the slightly larger road from Peillon to the Col de Banquettes, which is much less spectacular. Around this pass (no col sign) I ride into a cloud, a cloud that captures me till the picturesque mountain village Sainte-Agnès. It has taken much more time from L'Escarène than I had thought, and then from a signpost I learn that I've sunk as low as 600 m. From which altitude the views to Menton and the Méditerranean are spectacular, by the way. It's humid, it's warm, I hate it I'm behind my schedule (I wanted to reach La Turbie before 2 p.m., in time for a meal), and the road at times is steep.

	First view of Menton + Mediterranean		Closer view
	Last views of Menton   . . . .		. . . .   and Sainte-Agnès

Last hard kilometers of   . . . .

. . . .   the old man in the Alps

It's 325m up to the Col de la Madone. It's almost 1 p.m. (I learn from the time when the photo with the missing col sign is taken). And then it's in fact downhill to Nice all the time. The beginning of the descent, in fact the whole part till the D53, is rather spectacular. I make a photo stop at a point from where I have a nice view onto Peillon, and can also discern Nice Airport (directly at the coast). That this beautifully located village is Peillon, is also confirmed by a car driver, I think a local, who stops and obeserves very enthusiastically: "C'est beau, hein! D'ici ça va en bas tout le temps!"  

	C'est beau		C'est beau
	View as far as   . . . .		. . . .   Nice-Côte d'Azur Aeroport
	Peillon		Beau, beau, beau
	Monaco (?)		Pêche melba   in La Turbie

In (busy) La Turbie no meal, but just pêche melba and a beer. And receive an invitation for a party in Leiden at the end of August. I exchange my cycling shoes for sandals and put on a layer of sun cream (an act that I could often skip, this not so sunny year). On the road from La Turbie, with nice views to the sea all the time, several yacht clubs (Monaco!) the traffic is less distracting than I had feared in such a touristic area. Obviously/luckily most people choose the road along the coast, 400 m down, or the autoroute.

	Relaxed!!		Last   (new!)   col
	Staying rather high   . . . .		. . . .   above the coastline
	Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat		Gare SNCF de Nice

And then, 15 km before the finish, the last (new!) pass, the Col d'Èze (at 3:30 p.m.). Some patience is needed before the final descent sets in (the map mentions the Col des Quatre Chemins, and it's a remarkable descent (from Nice it's quite a climb!)  I buy some yoghurt and other things to eat, look for a bookshop – one last time – and try to reach the cycle path along the sea as quickly as possible. That cycle path – where you need two pairs of eyes with the crowd of oncoming walkers, skaters, cyclists (English cyclists that keep to the left!) – will lead immediately to the airport. I have a yoghurt stop on a bench with beach view. With the heat – I think it's the warmest day of the trip – a dive is alluring, but where to leave my bike (and the pannier on my handle bar with camera, passport, credit card, ....) ?  I ask a young woman who's reading whether she will keep an eye on my possessions, which she does, and have my Mediterranean dip. I have a chat with my bicycle guard, a Belgian, who also gives directions to a bookstore. After a last unsuccessful try for a Lenterec novel I cover the last five km (with rear wind!)

	Piste cyclable   . . . .		. . . .   all along the beach
	Crazy cycle path		Also solowheeling path
	After my Mediterranean dip		The path/tour ends at the airport

Around six I enter the cool/air-conditioned airport and start dismantling my bike.   It was all very nice.

    Alas it's all over now . . . . .