13-07-2015     Siena → Siena,   127 + 10 km

I've set my watch at 7:30 a.m. and find myself quite refreshed. Good breakfast, in particular the cappuccino and the cereals. On the terrace it's already quite warm. I take my time. I meet cyclist Jan from München (in five days, over the Brenner Pass), the owner of one of the bike in the hallway. He's making tours from 'base camp' Siena with a camera attached to his helmet and then puts his films on Youtube (to be watched by whom? But then, who will read this verbose prose, apart from me? Well, at least YOU seem to do ;-).   As late as 9:30 I start my second 'giro de Siena'. Today I have in mind a tour west of Siena, comprising some 120 km. The way out is easy to find (and indeed I notice that the night before I had been almost at my destination before I turned my handlebar ...)   The girl from the youth hostel already announced more moderate temperatures for the upcoming days – indeed the first day may well have been the warmest of the whole trip – and so to my pleasure it does feel more agreeable indeed. The slopes feel more moderate too – of course I'm carrying less weight. The P2 to Poggibonsi/Colle di Val d'Elsa is not very exciting and rather busy, despite the SI-FI-Rac (Siena-Firenze-Race track?) that runs parallel. I get lost a bit in Colle di Val d'Elsa, but do get onto the P36 to Bibbiano, and this alternative to the 'main' access road to San Gimignano brings a few steep climbs and descents, especially the last km to San Gimignano.

San Gimignano, on top of a hill,

of course

Bus loads of tourists there. What's going on here? I have a coke and a tomato on the street, and after that a coffee (caffè Americano, € 2,70 – the most expensive coffee of the whole trip) on a busy terrace. Okay, it's a village with a cobblestone main street and some old buildings. A week later I learn that the Dutch ANWB designates San Gimignano as one of the sites for which you should make a detour (even more so than for Siena!). With some more shopping (eatables!) it's all in all quite a long break. A steep descent from S.G. and then quite a climb (steep!) to get back onto the main road to Volterra. And I'm exhausted again!? What's going on here; have I 'lost it'? Thirteen km after the first break I take another break in Castel San Gimignano, in an unsightly bar. I order a 1.5 litre bottle of (cold!) acqua frizzante and a panini formaggio-pomodori. This appears the turning point of today, and in a way of the first week. The next 35 km – over the quiet, undulating P52/P27/P28 – offer no difficulty (and a lot of cycling fun!) while the sky is getting overcast. This is how I like it, to go on and on and on through an ever changing environment, the wind in my hair, a (tiny) bit of sun on my arms . . .   During these 35 km there is no sign of any bar or restaurant. I expect one in Montingegnoli, but neither here, nor in Montalcinello (the next village, to which people in Montingegnoli forwarded me) do I succeed. I do fear it will rain, and indeed in Montalcinello a few drops fall.

Yellow broom everywhere

Dry place for JJ in Montalcinello

Fortunately I have some food stuff from San Gimignano to stuff me up. I slightly shorten the afternoon loop since I don't want to be back too late (and maybe I'll have some time to have a look in the historic part of Siena), and so far more or less every road in Toscane has been continuously climbing and descending . . .   On the main road (S73) to Siena, I'm confronted with a climb of a few km, but after that it's mostly downhill to Siena, and for a while the road even follows a torrente (Rosia). That feels good!

Another village on another hill

Threatening sky + other kind of yellow

Siena, the higher part

Close to Siena the road is transformed into a motor way. Ouch! Since it is rather early still, around six, I venture a ride up to the old center. Bad idea! It takes a lot of energy and car gases and offers me little. An ice cream. On the (quite long) way down I need to ask directions for the station several times. And even when I finally get there I'm so disoriented I don't know at which side of the railway I find myself. But when I'm finally back in 'well-known' territory, the road up to the youth hostel goes smoothly (much, much easier than yesterday). I have another chat with Jan, who isn't interested to join me for dinner. I find a cozy ristorante where halfway my pasta e insalata I'm joined by a friendly child psychologist from Belgium (original Bengal). Tonight I've got the dormitory all to myself, until the moment I fall asleep, at least. Late in the evening (or the night) another guest arrives; a guy from Argentina, I learn the next morning.