19-07-2015     L'Aquila → Sulmona,   107 km

Good breakfast again. Solitary. Other (few) guests: business-like men and women and later on one or two young couples that look more like tourists. I do not find the 'white' road out of L'Aquila; twice I have to turn around, and then I accept that I come earlier onto the S5Bis than planned. I do make a small 'white' sidestep, which means another climb of 2 km followed by a descent to end up maybe 20 m higher than where I left the 'big' road. Anyway, the S5Bis is not a bad road, of which the guys on the Gran Sasso already informed me. The views over the valley of L'Aquila, with the Gran Sasso massive above are nice, the grades are fantastic: a regular 5 percent (13 + 1 km between 4.5 and 6 per cent, exactly how I like it most).

	Nice,		gentle,
	wide,		open S5Bis
			11:23 a.m.
	Short descent to		the plateau around Rocca di Cambio

As happened before I have no idea how high I will be going, and at home learn that the elevation gain to the Valico di Rocca di Cambio (alt. 1383 m) is around 800 m. After the valico there's hardly a descent. I approach Rocca di Cambio over a wide plateau. This high village must still be situated above 1300 m. I look around for food, which I find at two different shops. It's around 11:45, so the shops are still open, but I'm a bit worried about the few km (again!) I've covered so far. I have my usual two cappuccinos, and meanwhile it has become a lovely warm day. I fill my bottle and mount J.J. for another two km over the S5Bis. This I can leave quickly for the white unspecified (i.e. not numbered) road to Secinaro. This goes up still a little more to another Valico (della Forcella, alt. 1403m).

	One valico after another		staying high
	Descent to Secinaro		Around Secinaro

For quite a while I stay high, in the Parco Regionale Velino, but then the descent sets in. It's a nice one, over a wide road, with a good surface and without sharp, cluttered turns. In Secinaro it's REAL HOT. I descend a little further till Castelvecchio Subequo, and then have to go up again to Castel di Ieri. The small P9 from there to Goriano Sicoli looks even (namely: straight) on the map, but it isn't. In fact I'm slightly disappointed that the altitude given on the sign with the village name mentions only 720 m; after the effort it took me to get there I'd hoped and expected to be higher. On a bench under a tree bordering on a playground without children (well, it's probably a good idea to not let children play on the open field this time of this hot day) I enjoy my eatables from Rocca di Cambio, I turn them into a tomato-cheese sandwich (and I shouldn't have waited much longer seeing the process the cheese has already gone through). Expecting Sulmona to be at about 400 m I'm quite amazed that the road out of Goriano Sicoli goes up VERY steeply and continues to go up for some 2 km. Also I had not expected to find a railway, quite high in these deserted hills. In fact it's rather a miraculous railway, curvy and tunneled.

Road up to Goriano Sicoli

Amazing railway

The road surface, alas, it is quite bad, but the experience, without any traffic, is fun. The climbing ends precisely at a 180 degree hairpin bend. Strange; now it feels a though I just went halfway up a hillside, and then turn around to go down on the same side. The descent, over the quite bad road, with also stretches with gravel, is less fun. Also it goes down in phases, with up-going sections as well. The views, with elegant viaducts below, and barren hilltops all around, some with (modern) windmills, are quite nice. From Pratola Peligna the last 8 km are almost even. What a short day distance! The radiant sun from the right hurts my right ear! Around 5 o'clock (well, okay, that is rather early) I reach Sulmona. I ride into the 'historic' center where I hope to find a bed and breakfast or hostel by just riding around. Which I do not. Well, I come across one B&B for € 45,-, but with breakfast served at another location. After quite some asking I find the tourist office, and with their map + addresses (quite a few), after two vain phone calls, and one vain visit at the door, I manage to find "Casa Barbati", a neat place, but a bit solitary. The people running the place are living somewhere else, there are no other guests today (well, I will stay three nights), and I have to make my own breakfast – in the well-facilitated kitchen.

View down to Sulmona

Swallows' nest   (close to my 'nest')

When I go into town, or rather, into the park I'm haunted by feelings of loneliness . . . I don't like another night (several other nights!) on my own again . . . I miss my girlfriend Leontien! Also, in the park for the first time I have a look at the global trajectory of the trip and notice that Souillac (on August 6) is really quite FAR away. Either I have to turn north from Sulmona immediately and make big stretches almost every day (with all my luggage!), or I'll take it easier (and I'm starting to like the Apennines here!) and take the train. Later on in the evening – while I'm having a pizza at a pizzeria (the most important criteria for choosing this one are the location (very close to "Casa Barbati") and the wifi service) – I see that there is a direct train from Bologna to Torino . . .   Or should I shorten my stay in Sulmona and start the 'way back' tomorrow? For a change I also order a dessert other than icecream (namely: tiramisu). The BIG challenge of this undertaking, i.e. Piazzale de Blockhaus, is within reach, though a bit too far to include it in a giro from Sulmona.   With sombre/restless thoughts I don't have a good sleep.