01-08-2014     Rencurel – Rencurel     109 km

The Catalunyans and I have agreed to have breakfast together, at 7:30 a.m. After this sociable start, and having deposited a bag with dirty laundry in Philippe's corner I set off for a Tour de la Chartreuse, without a much worked out plan. Immediately I turn 'wrong' (not much can go wrong on such a nice day in such a nice environment). I think I continue in the direction in which I was going when I arrived yesterday, in the direction of the Col de Romeyère, and it takes some time before I realize this isn't the case. I am having a good time anyway over tiny routes forestières, being in much better condition than I had expected, where most signs along the road are for walkers, giving distances in time rather than in kilometers. Well, that just means interchanging the Col de Pra l'Étang and the Col du Mont Noir. Fine with me, in fact this makes it clear which loop – including both the Gorges d'Écouges and the Gorges du Nan – I will take. I pass the Col de Prélétang (local spelling) and am waiting/looking for information for the Col du Mont Noir, which I finally get from three randonneurs à pied, who are having a hot discussion (though in a good-humoured way) about their route. I have chosen the right directions, and it appears it is only a short while to reach this highest pass in the Chartreuse.

Idyllic quiet route forestière

Another way of spelling the name

The route forestière continues

It seems meant for hikers mostly

Col forestière

Start of the long descent   . . . .

. . . .   out into the open

Eboulements

partout

And what a disappointing pass that is: no open view whatsoever! I descend a few hundred meters to the other side, expecting some 'reward' there, but no, nothing but trees. So, back to the west, down, but not too fast through the dense forest. Around Malleval it gets more open, and the views onto the huge, deep cut in the rocks to the west, a.k.a. the Gorges du Nan, are terrific. Also, the climb from this side to the Col du Mont-Noir may well be hors catégorie, with an elevation gain of 1150 m and some quite steep sections! What a small man I am in a magnificent, grand environment, a small man producing a small cascade du Nan. The actual gorges are rather short, but again, what a magnificent environment!

Gorgeous Gorges du Nan

TERRIFIC!

	Petit cascade du Nan ;-)		End of the gorges

Just before Cognin-les-Gorges, in the valley of the Isère, I meet a German couple with two very young children, with whom (the parents) I share my enthusiasm about the last hours: sehr schön aber hart. Some small shopping – I still have leftovers from the big shopping yesterday – and a short break on the village square, and around 11:45 I continue my course. The distance so far is rather disappointing, so I try to keep a good pace on the D532, up north, to the next climb. The road still goes down slowly, which surprises me, as it follows the Isère upstream. However: the mistral is gone! When I see a sign: "Route de col de Romeyères, cyclistes: lumière obligatoire", I realize I have forgotten to bring my light. Well, I'll see what happens, and in case of need will ask some car driver to share his light. Around Saint-Gervais I turn left for the climb of today, and it's fun.

Let's see what happens

The start of the steeper part

Saint-Gervais

Magnifique

Magnifique

MAGNIFIQUE

Whoosh!

It's a small, quiet road – apart from the sound of the huge waterfall, which after all the reported rainfall is probably hugher than in '99, the only time I've done this road, from the other side, and from which occasion I vividly remember the woww moment when I came from the Gorges d'Écouges into the open. Now I look up to the immense cliff the whole time, trying to find the road up there, cut into the rock. The climb is quite regular, and then, 1 km before the point panoramique the old (most spectacular part of) the road is closed, and there's a (new) tunnel instead, unlit, as was to be expected. The road is rather quiet indeed, but I'm unlucky with long waiting time for the first car to arrive from below, it feels like a quarter of an hour before finally one arrives, and then I'm lucky that the driver gives his consent to share his light. Allez!

Route coupée

My saviour (with a car)

Into the Gorges d'Écouges

MAGNIFIQUE

I make some new (digital) photos from the spectacular view from the point right above the cascade and am surprised to meet the German guy from Cognin there. Have I motivated him to explore the Col du Mont Noir? Because that's what he has done, and his condition must be quite superior to mine (but hey, he seems twenty years my junior!) The last six km to the Col de Romeyère are a piece of cake (I don't understand the double arrows ( > 9%?) on the map – well, I don't feel them).   At 14:15 I pass (the church of) Rencurel, and speed down to the Bourne.

No need for a stop

Just after Rencurel

Steep climb from La Balme-Rencurel

Just for the fun, and also as a training workout, I take the steep road up from La Balme-de-Rencurel, after which again the spectacular descent along the cliff down to the Bourne. As in 2010 I ride up and later down the most dazzling part of the Gorges de la Bourne, of which the way up is rather strenuous after three hours of cycling without much rest. This year I don't feel 100% safe there; should I put on my helmet? (Would it help?)   However, even this umpteenth time I'm here (first time in 1986): how marvelous it is.

	Every time again		Marvelous

Even the ride through the more gentle Gorges de Méaudre strains me. I definitely need some food and rest in Méaudre, and I find both, and also an ATM (so that I can make Philip happy with cash). At 15:45 I have some 40 km to go still, with two short climbs. It should be possible to be 'home' before 7 p.m. First the not very noteworthy col of which I always forget the name (the indeed not very noteworthy Col de Croix-Perrin), which is easily conquered (on the middle chain wheel) with a filled stomach. After the (short) descent 7 flat kms through the (ugly!) valley between Lans-en-Vercors and Villard-de-Lans, and then great fun along the Bourne again. Fun also: the lower part of the road will be open tomorrow! Possible it's already open today, the road is quite busy at this time of the day.

Good news for tomorrow

Going up to Rencurel again

Magnificent meadow!

I pass Rencurel a second time at the stroke of six, and 23 minutes later (3.7 km further, up!) arrive at the gîte, trying to inculcate the route for tomorrow morning. I set myself at the picnic table in front of the gîte and have a chat with the three grown-up horse riders. Again a lovely dinner – today it's just me with the groupe équestre, who agree to converse in English tonight.

Pictures from 'home':

Nice view

Homely dog

I book a bed for the following night, but learn that one night later one of my favorite places La Marmotte the la Meije in Bourg d'Oisans is fully booked, alas. Also I'm thinking of further reducing my plans for the high Alpes – the high unpaved loop with the Colle delle Finestre may not be such a good idea after all (that German being so much quicker than me hasn't been good for my self confidence).

Homely activity