06-08-2014 Bardonecchia – Montbardon 76 km
Breakfast is served by the man in the house. The only other guest – a hiker – has already left before 7 a.m. There's enough fruit and juices to satisfy at least six people (and ten if they do not stuff themselves up as I do), but "that's okay" are the host's words, who serves delicious coffee and is in for some small talk. He tells me he has crossed the Col de l'Échelle yesterday (and considers the south side a little harder, but it is not so hard anyway). I leave around 8:30. Gorgeous day – just like in 2001! From the Italian side it is an irregular climb. The first five km the direct environment is rather spoiled by all the winter sports facilities (chalets, ski lifts, .... ) The last right turn (it may be the last but one as well) seems pretty high up from afar, though the elevation gain from Bardonechia adds up to a mere 450 m.
The perception of steepness (as I remember it) must have come from the tiredness 25 years ago. It is very manageable for a 53 years old with weak knees. The colours, especially of the rocky peak just west of the pass, are as nice as on that beautiful morning in 2001; it well deserves it's name: l'Aiguille Rouge. Compared to thirteen years ago, with a speed of around 10 km/h, I have much more time to take in all the beautiful views.
It's almost a pity when I reach the tunnel, after which the highest point comes almost immediately.
(Almost) immediately (almost) the end in view
Nice overall view of Colle della Scala
Road high up from a different angle
First view down to Bardonecchia
Gorgeous climb on a gorgeous day
All the time: Aiguille Rouge high up
Bis
Leaving Bardonecchia behind/below
The best views are to the west
Topped by the Aiguille Rouge
It's wonderful isn't it?!
Last view down . . . .
. . . . before the tunnel brings me to the 'other' side
The col sign is put 2 km later, after a sort of route forestière with many signs of forestry activities. I arrive at the same time at the col sign as a group of hikers with eight (!) cars from the French side. Some of them have trouble turning their vehicles into the parking places, and one of them looks VERY annoyed at my bike next to the signpost (for the photo).
Forestry activities
My bike standing in the way
High views (from not even such a high point)
La Vallée de la Clarée
The descent is quick and fresh (on the shady side of the mountain) and there's some cycling activity too. At the end I cross the valley, riding straight onto a nice pine-filled mountain with a rocky topping. I turn left at the Clarée, which I will follow till Briançon, which gives me – among other things – a view from a different angle of the mountain highway to Montgenèvre. From a distance it looks impressive and attractive, but I'm glad I don't have it on the menu again.
Beautiful mountain on the south bank of . . . .
. . . . the river Clarée
View up to road up to Montgenèvre
Traffic jam in Briançon
On my way to the challenge of today, a challenge which two weeks ago I feared I might well have to skip, I first have to get through busy Briançon. Luckily I go down most of the time, and I can use the sidewalk to avoid the long queues of cars headed for the center/the south. And then suddenly it's there, the first direction sign "Col d'Izoard". I continue till the start of the climb, "Sommet (2360 m) à 19.5 km, Alt. 1215 m, 6.5%"
and a digital board warning: "LE CLIGNOTANT N'EST PAS FACULTATIF". Close by there's a market going on, so I put my bike against a gate in an inconspicuous corner, imprint the location well in my head, and walk further through a multitude of people, in search of a pâtisserie and an empty table on a sunny terrace. The pâtisserie becomes a boulangerie, and the table is in the shade. From a newspaper I learn that the weather forecast for the oncoming days is hopeful.
The much apprehended climb turns out quite okay. Until halfway, i.e. until the village Cervières, it's rather easy even (even in the sense of 'quite'), but then in the first 10 km the road goes up only 400 m, and the steepest km stays below 7%. There's also a section of three almost flat kilometers. So without any 'pain' I reach the mentioned village.
The 'official' start of the climb
View to the south (valley of the Durance)
The 'easy' first half . . . .
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. . . . to Cervières
From there: up into the higher mountains
I share the road with considerably less cars than on the Lautaret and considerably less cars than on the Col du Montgenèvre too. On the other hand the density of cyclists is higher than on that horrible road into Italy, and some of these pass me with an alarming difference in speed. However, during the steeper second half, with an average of 8% with – contrary to my memory but in accordance with the observations by Gérard, my roommate in Châtillon – no km steeper than 9%. Towards near the end I notice I'm passing more 'colleagues' than I'm being passed by others myself – at the top I receive compliments from (I guess) an Englishman. What certainly helps during the last part is the detailed route information at every km – from 1989 I remember a never ending twisting road. The climb takes me definitely less than two hours from Briançon.
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 Someone to catch up with |
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 It's in the pocket |
On the top a group of ten-fifteen Italian riders (a few nice ladies too), and a Dutchman 'like me': old bike, old panniers, heavily loaded, old Dutchman, . . . He has been on the road eight weeks already (I guess he's about five years my senior – retired already?) and he is following the 100 cols' ride (not for the first time, he tells me, but I have forgotten how many times already).
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 Italians around the obélisque |
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 Start of the exhilarating descent |
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 Brunissard |
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During the exhilarating descent I make several stops, to make pictures, or simply to create distance between me and queues of cars – at the age of over fifty I don't get a kick of passing cars during a descent anymore. Albeit the wind is against me on the straight steep section just before Brunissard, I increase my overall top speed to 66.7 km/h. After the intersection with the D444 to Château-Queyras this road tends to go up, and I feel my legs (not my knees!), and though timewise it would be possible still, I decide to skip the 'extra' for today: the aller-et-retour to Notre-Dame de Clausis. So I take my time in Château-Queyras, write a postcard to my doctor proudly mentioning the recent conquest of the Izoard, and don't let me talk out of the direct route to Montbardon ("mais ce n'est qu'une piste!"). The man in the restaurant tells me it's okay for V.T.T., and more importantly that it's almost even (as I had gathered; this way I also avoid the steep 3 km from the Guil to the gîte).
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 Château . . . . |
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 . . . . de Queyras |
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 In Château Queyras . . . . |
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 . . . . I take my time (and a beer) |
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 Taken from the bridge . . . . |
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 . . . . over the Guil |
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 Within walking distance |
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 Road to the Sommet-Bûcher |
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 It's heaven |
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 View to road to Brunissard |
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 Heaven |
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 . . . . but rough, at times |
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 Almost there |
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 . . . . and there it is: Montbardon |
As for the time and the distance: I could have walked the whole unpaved part (of some 5 km). Instead I just ride very cautiously, enjoy the quietness, only sounds of nature, and the nice weather, and don't mind to get off three or four times when the road surface is really too rough. Even so, I arrive ultra early (after an ultra short étape – probably the shortest ever in thirty years!) at the gîte Panda in Montbardon. Time enough to do some washing (which in the sun and wind is perfectly dry within two hours). The superb view over the (valley of the) Guil hasn't changed.
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 the view over the Guil |
Alas, the people that ran the place in 2001 have left: the gîte is taken over by a family of (former?) Belgians, and the teenagers that have come over for the summer to lend their hands to their mum obviously don't do this of their free will. It seems there are some last minute cancellations: the table is laid for more people than the ones present, probably my roommates that they told me I would have, but that don't turn up.