08-08-2014     Méolans – Méolans    141 km In my original plan this would have been a relatively easy day in the last week, now it will turn out to be 'objectively' the most exacting étape of the whole trip. Control freak Dominique has given each guest his place at the breakfast table, and keeps an eye on everything. But that's fine with me. The fresh baguette with home made confitures is lovely. With good confidence I mount my Koga. Following the Ubaye till the foot of the climb I have again the wind in my face (on this section I will have the wind against me four times in three days). Again I avoid the N94 from Les-Thuiles eastward, and the scenery is fine. Right after the junction where the road to Pra-Loup splits off the road to the Col d'Allos is barred . . . for cars! Policeman and women guard the barrier and I see them have a discussion with a car driver that's not too happy. I like that! Chapelle de Méolans L'Ubaye The barrier at the start It's really fun to climb this beautiful pass, long and quite regular, with so many other people. Families, sometimes with quite young children, groups of men, groups of women, and also many individuals like me. Although the road doesn't have any surprises for me anymore it's GREAT to pass it again. In the beginning it's quite a narrow road. After some 5 km the road turns into a side valley to the west and the magnificent, bald Grande Soléane, towering high and white (by the exposure to the sun from the east – no snow up there, around 2900 m) above everything, it's no surprise to see it there – it was there at the former occasions – but it remains wonderful to look up to it. What's also nice of this section is that you can first see the road high up at the other side of the side valley, and after you've made the turn have a nice look down. At about the same location you are treated with a great view to the east, right up/into the narrow and rather straight valley of the Bachelard, with the said river blinking in the sunlight. All the time I go at an easy pace, never straining myself, which is of course easier than on the steeper climbs of the last few days with all my luggage, though even today, with just two small panniers and a pannier on my handle bar I sometimes get admiring comments when I pass people on even lighter bikes. Many cycling folks Wonderful narrow road High up in the sun: the wonderful Grande Soléane View back/down during the 'sidestep' Wonderful valley of the Bachelard Last hairpins unto the pass I'm not the only one taking pictures Nice athlete Last but one view back A Dutchman, which first passes me, but whom I catch up with higher on, tries to follow me (in which he doesn't succeed). After this sidestep I quickly get above the tree line, the views back remain spectacular, the last hairpins till the top get into view, and I arrive at the col right on time (to also descend before the cars will start polluting the air again). It's buzzing with people up there; so it was at the Col d'Izoard, but now there are only cyclists. The south side of the Col d'Allos is by far not so attractive as the north side, the sunlight shearing the mountain slope gives a nice effect, but the winter sports center La Foux-d'Allos is rightdown ugly. I pass it without stopping, bearing in mind the distance and the two climbs still in store, and rush on – along the Verdon – through Allos – to the picturesque village of Colmars. Many cycling folks high up there Last view to the north Start of the descent (small peek of the Soléane still) View down over La Foux d'Allos Sunlight shearing the mountain side Grandiose mountains all around La Foux d'Allos (yuck!) Le Verdon Colmars . . . .   village green It's busy in this town, market again, the first boulangerie has a long queue outside on the pavement, the second has a much shorter waiting time. I take my culinary acquisitions to the large village green and enjoy them and a twenty minutes of rest on a bench, in the sun, watching people, mesmerizing about the upcoming Col des Champs. I have to go back 500 m to the start of this much less frequented (also by me) climb. The start is narrow, steep (two km at ± 9%) over a poorly maintained road – which is less a problem when ascending than when descending – through woods, with every now and then a glimpse onto the quickly lowering Colmars (well, quickly, everything is relative, isn't it?)   I do not remember much of this side of the climb; the only time I did it from the west was during my shortest Tour de France ever – eight days only – in 1996. The trees impede great views, which is a pity, and they also impede too much direct sunlight, which is a lucky circumstance. Among the few cars that pass me by there is a small Cycletours van, which explains the guy with the "Emmen" cycling shorts, who is going just a little faster than me, who is not in for a talk. I don't feel enticed to keep up with him, again I go up en reposant all the time. The last few km I'm severely attacked by several swarms of flies. Above the trees, the sights are fantastic, and the road creeps up along/through black rocky mountains. Terrific environment! Narrow and not very well maintained start Quite steep too Through the woods Some cycling folks here Getting into the great wide open A last steep(er) one The barren last part On top On top too At the top I meet the guy from "Emmen" and his Cycletours friends, and the guides with ravitaillement. They completely ignore me – a phenomenon I have experienced more than once in the past; stupid Cycletours attitude! The east side of the Col des Champs – I'm getting out of English superlatives: it is spectaculaire, impressionant, génial, formidable, grandiose (which immediately exhausts my French laudatory adjectives as well – and I will need more of them for the third highlight of this day!)   Magnificent descent of Col des Champs One of the many treasures in the southern Alps . . . . brings me to the river Var The five-star descent brings me to the Var. In view of the time I postpone the next break till Entraunes, six nice kms further through the gorges of this river, and already some 200 m higher. There (i.e. in Entraunes) I have a drink and a bite and a talk with the Frenchman in the blue shirt that passed me on the Col des Champs (and who recognizes the anti-social group behaviour I met with up there). He seems to be on a tight schedule as well, probably with more pressure on it, since he has a wife that's waiting for him down on the other side (of the Col de Cayolle). Along the Var to Entraunes Quite impressive too! After twenty minutes in the shade I go out into the warmth of the sun again. I catch up and pass a guy from Danmark that's already sweating all over – and it's quite a long way (1100 m up) still. The wind is favorable, and the feeling that I'm easily going to accomplish this serious challenge is great. As I expected I also catch up with a group of four compatriots (possibly dad with three sons) that I saw (and heard) passing from the terrace in Entraunes. The climb is different from what I remember from 2008. First the tunnel shortly before the impressive hairpin bend comes much earlier than expected, then the two small villages, then the sign indicating the Source du Var – well, maybe that's new (another graduate from the university of tourism ;-)  – and lastly the many hairpin bends near the end, when the temperature is certainly not a problem anymore. I do remember the big black rocky mountain (Tête de Gorgias?) in the south east. The last bit from Entraunes (1100 m up!) View back to . . . . Entraunes (I guess) The tunnel already! Immediately after that: the impressive hairpin bend A higher view back These Dutch guys Tourist info ;-) The end in sight Amazing views back almost all the time ALMOST there Amazing views back almost all the time Tête de Gorgias   (I guess) It is fulfilled!! On the top an assembly of motorcyclists, friendly guys, one of whom eternalizes me digitally, in front of the 'gravestone' with the col name engraved. And then the descent: not in any way inferior to the east side of the Col des Champs, which surprises me. In 2008 I descended to the north while thunderstorms were approaching, so obviously I was too much focused on keeping a good speed. Today (with of course the elation of having accomplished three 'giant' cols): it's a super descent! No: super!! I keep interrupting the ride down to make pictures. Wonderful! Another amazing descent: Col de la Cayolle One of the bridges . . . . . . . . over the river Bachelard Also after Bayasse, against the wind, but who cares, the road along the Bachelard, through the valley I had such a nice view unto/into in the morning, leading to the amazing Gorges de la Malune: it is as if I visit them for the first time ever. I must not forget to ask Dominique again whether the road from Bayasse to the Col de la Moutière is really impraticable en vélo, and if not, I will follow this route with much pleasure again tomorrow. After Bayasse the fun isn't over yet Far away view: climb of the morning ↑   ↓   Gorges de la . . . . . . . . Malune   ↓   ↑ ± same photo as yesterday That resto again Quite a good day! As early as 6 p.m. I'm already enjoying a Leffe in the 'well-known' restaurant of the campground 2 km before Méolans, and around 7 p.m. I arrive at the gîte. Once again a would-be roommate has cancelled; this time it's a motorcyclist who has changed his itinerary because of the weather forecast. Dinner is sociable and tasty, though it's lasagna with very much meat. ↓   ↓   ↓ →    Next day     ← Back to overview