When around January it appeared I had to make my own plans for the summer I automatically started looking at my old maps of the Alps (the Michelin maps of Switzerland dating back to '85-'87) and found there were still quite a few interesting additions to make to my lists of cols and I wouldn't mind either to revisit old places. Important decision to make: which bike to take ... my old (1988) or new Koga (2009) ... the one which fitted me best, or the one with all the modern facilities (swift gears, hub dynamo, hydro brakes), but two kilos heavier, and with still not the right 'sit'?   I opted for the first, which required a thorough restoration. A restoration that was worth every euro I put into it (thanks Jan!).


07-07-2012   NOOTDORP → UTRECHT   . . . .            

Enya makes some farewell pictures – two years ago she accompanied me to the Cévennes – around noon, and I have a rather uneventful 60 km ride to Utrecht. There’s only a 5 km detour because the bridge at Waddinxveen still isn’t fixed, and I have to wait quite a while at the open ‘twin-bridge’ in Boskoop. A few hundred meters later I almost bump into a boy who bumped onto a traffic pole, probably due to his not being able to text a message while riding a bike. In Utrecht I have enough time to do some shopping and when I arrive at the Jaarbeurs parking place shortly before 4 p.m., there’s no sign yet of any co-passengers. They do arrive arrive around 4:30, but not in large numbers. The bus is early too, but unfortunately we have to wait for two more people. It’s the same in Eindhoven, where a very experienced Cycletours customer ‘knows’ that the bus is always late. Well, not today, and indeed I hope that the bus will arrive at my destination Bourg d’Oisans at least one hour before schedule. We do win some time due to the small group (among which four guides) and the happy circumstance that on Saturday the A2 to Maastricht is by far not as busy as on a Friday.


      08-07-2102   . . . .   → LE BOURG D'OISANS

I wake up early – in fact, I hardly sleep (alas, the old ‘sleeping buses’ are not on the road anymore) – and notice immediately that the wipers are making havoc on the front screen. The cloud is completely blocked by a thick cover of clouds when we reach Sévrier, at the Lac d'Annecy, about 6:30 a.m., which is good! However, I fear this will undoubtedly be the first time I'll have to start a Tour de France in the rain. To anyone's surprise it isn't raining when we get from the bus. We leave more than half the group on a wet, deserted parking place in the middle of nowhere (where is the welcoming team? The Cycletours escorts for Bourg d'Oisans are a bit worried. Probably sound asleep in their tents!) Anyway, no more rain till Bourg d'Oisans, and even some patches of blue sky when we reach this destination around 9 a.m. Well on time! I wonder how the two very young chaps with their light racing bikes and full camping equipment (even a table!) will get everything to the campground, and I guess that the Cycletours guys will lend a hand (i.e. a place in their van), but that is none of my problems. I hang the four panniers to my good old Koga bike and set off in search of the gîte 'La Marmotte de la Meije' in the hameau of Le Vert. That appears to be the old 'Le Paradis' recently taken over by younger people. Breakfast is just at its end, it seems, when I arrive. I'm warmly welcomed, put most of my stuff in a corner and am ready for the first stage!


BOURG D'OISANS → BOURG D'OISANS,   distance 120 km,   dénivelée 2450 m

Blue is definitely taking over above when I ride back to Le Bourg, the sun breaks through!, while my attention is already attracted by the road along the wall of rock towering above Le Vert – tomorrow's pièce de résistance! The road to Séchilienne is busy, but with a favorable wind and a difference in altitude of about -400 m during 35 km I make it quickly to my first coffee. Well, coffee, the café I think I remember from earlier occasions is no longer there; I can only go back to the boulangerie for an instant coffee. This and a croissant I consume at the central fontaine, where I am joined for a short while by four 'Kiwi's' – two nice couples in black – just started from Grenoble this morning, and on their way to Alpe d'Huez (today) and the Col du Galibier (tomorrow). Not that my plans are not challenging, but during the first three étapes I will carry light luggage. Whereas they ... ouff! The weather is getting nicer and nicer when I cross the river Romanche for the first starter, the Col de Morte. This is a very regular climb, gaining about 1000 meters in altitude, and it offers no problems. At the summit I have a short break, take a picture and a banana, and leave my gloves on the bench (not on purpose). The views during the (irregular) descent, e.g. to the Mont Aiguille standing out high above La Mure, to the Col de Malissol and to the Obiou (I guess), are nice.

Just after Séchilienne		Descent from Col de Morte
View to Col de Malissol		View over La Mure

At about the lowest point, in Valbonnais, I have a break and a coke (and a newspaper) in the same restaurant – I guess – as two years ago with Enya, at the end of our twelve days trip from Nîmes to Le Bourg d'Oisans. Like then it is a quite warm afternoon. Also like in 2010 I 'do' the Col d'Ornon with rear wind and rear sun and without a shirt (and indeed get sun burnt as before). It will be an early arrival, until I decide to include the climb to Oulles, which starts about 1.5 km before La Paute. I'd noticed it in 2010 as an 'interesting' road, with some ten hairpin bends going up steeply. It's a rude climb of 6 km going up some 600 m. I get quickly overheated and out of breath. Around pôteau kilometrique 2 it is clear I won't make it in one 'jump', feeling my blood pulsating in the arteries in my neck. With pain (and sweat) I make it a km further (so I've gained 290 m in altitude already), and there take a long break on the tarmac, in the shade. I suppose I don't look too well as two cyclists who come up ask me whether I am okay. Well, sort of, everything is under control. From there I ride at an even lower speed, even so I catch up with the female half of the passers-by, and make it to the 'village' (seven houses or so) without a second break.

Start of climb to Col d'Ornon

Descent from Col d'Ornon

The point of no(!) return

Oulles 'accomplished'

View back to Oulles

That's good, even though I do for the time being not want to think about the Passo Mortirolo ....   After a quick descent with views up to Villard Reculaz and Alpe d'Huez, two mountain villages I hope to visit tomorrow, and a short even part, I arrive in warm Bourg d'Oisans. After some shopping at the local Casino (and sweet yoghurt on the pavement across the street – in the shade) I arrive at the gîte around 6:30 p.m. Time for a shower and a half hour on my bed for three nights. Dinner is under the lime tree (and not a platan, as I wrongly remembered). I share the table with eight British cyclists who on Saturday (= yesterday) did the Marmotte, and a older French randonneur à pied who must feel rather alien in his own country with so many English around; I do act as an interpreter.   I'm in bed before 9:30 and asleep before 10.




09-07-2012   LE BOURG D'OISANS → LE BOURG D'OISANS,   distance 105 km,   dénivelée 2650 m

I have breakfast at 8 with the last two British guys and the Frenchman; the others have left early. Clear blue sky!! The 'climb of the day' starts already after 2.5 km. A sign next to the road warns me of the four unlit tunnels; as did one of the English already (they did it by car and promised nice views). So it will also be a test for my new front light (part of the renovation of the Koga ;-). The first tunnel has a short part which is pitch dark and my front light fails (!) the test; for the rest the tunnels are okay. The gradient is high all the time (8.5 to 10% – so not the Mortirolo yet) but it is quite doable, also because I make a few photo stops, as here already the views over the Vallée d'Oisans are very nice.

Road to Col de Solude (from the garden of the gîte) 'The' warning

'The' road, with nice views

After Villard Notre Dame, the endpoint of the steep part, the road goes up another 1.5 km, and becomes a gravel road. It keeps going up and down for a while, there are also camions around (are they paving the whole stretch?) and halfway on this upper part I stop to take in the incredibly nice panorama (and capture it in .jpg format). At the highest point (Col de Solude) the road becomes well-paved again, and the descent is magnificent, and is continued by the last part of the descent from the Col d'Ornon, with the by now well-known view up to the road to Oulles. In the afternoon I will 'attack' Alpe d'Huez from the west, but first I have lunch break in the garden next to the tourist office of Allemont. In the shade! The afternoon climb starts with two hairpin bends to come level with the Lac du Verney, and then a climb of some nine km of about 7% to Villard Reculas. Nice views again over the Vallée d'Oisans; I can clearly see the Col de Solude on the other side, and the first half of the 'royal' road to l'Alpe d'Huez below.

Same road

Bourg d'Oisans (and l'Alpe d'Huez) seen from around Col de Solude

Lac du Verney

Bourg d'Oisans seen from Villard Reculas

After a short descent I come onto this main road, busy with cars and cyclists, of whom for a change I do pass a few. After a short break at a small supermarchée in l'Alpe d'Huez I follow the signs and a few instructions of locals to find the right way out of this crazy mountain village to the Col de Sarennes. How quiet this road is in comparison; it goes up and down for 5 km or so, and then at the end – with a strong tail wind – I have to go up another 250 m in 3 km.

At the col, just under 2000 m

Descent from   Col de Sarennes

On the other side I find a great panorama again, deep down and far, far away on this clear day; I guess I can see the massive of the Meije over there. The climb from that side looks a lot harder than from the Alpe d'Huez side. It doesn't take much time – just a lot of braking – to get to the Barrage du Chambon. From there another steep km down and at Freney-en-Oisans I leave the D1091 (I can't get used to these long codes for the roads) for a short break to have a rest, a drink, and regain energy for the climb to Auris-en-Oisans to make it a full Tour d'Oisans. However, during the first (steep) km up I decide it is better to skip that part, and just take the easy road (the busy D1091) and have an early arrival 'home'; and an hour of reading on one of the sun beds in the sunny garden of "La Marmotte de la Meije". Well, before I turn left into Le Bourg I decide to 'do' the first two bends to l'Alpe d'Huez. On the way down I set the highest speed of the trip so far (and about the highest of the whole trip, as far as I have seen it), i.e. 70 km/h. I have time for a Leffe but prefer the garden of the gîte. I share the garden/dinner table with a motor couple, my age, from the Haute-Savoie.

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10-07-2012   LE BOURG D'OISANS → LE BOURG D'OISANS,   distance 114 km,   dénivelée 2900 m

The morning is partly cloudy. This will be the last day to 'test' myself sans bagage, and of course enjoy the gorgeous scenery around Le Bourg d'Oisans. The real (and new) test comes first and is called Col du Sabot and is ranked the hardest but two on my to-do-list for these seventeen days. First an easy hour to Verney to warm up. Turning right at the end of the Lac du Verney (onto the Chemin du Col du Sabot ;-) it goes up steeply to La Villette, 2 km after Vaujany. This part I've done before, in 1999; then I didn't continue, partly because someone told me the condition of the road was very bad. This time I take a short rest before trying this second (larger) half with an average of 9% (and no peaks much higher). It is hard, but I do not get out of breath and make it to the top without a foot on the ground. From the pass a footpath goes up a little further and leads to a spot with VERY nice views back to the Oisans valley and down to the Lac and Barrage de Grand Maison, and even onto the Col du Glandon!

View from Col du Sabot to the north   (Glandon, a.o)

View from Col du Sabot to the south

Descent from Col du Sabot

The descent is mostly tiring for my hands. In Vaujany I cannot find a boulangerie and in Le Villette not a single restaurant. I dare take a seat at a picnic table at one of the huge chalets on the shore (beautifully located indeed). Oops, the owner gets out; fortunately it isn't a Frenchman (for some French people propriété privée is a big thing), so I can stay where I am. I promise myself a sandwich or something – I have almost run out of food – in Le Rivier d'Allemont, right after the steepest part of the second climb of the day, to the 'good old' Col de la Croix-de-Fer. In fact, this part is not even as steep as the average grade of the Sabot! I guess I choose the wrong restaurant, they have only one kind of sandwich – rather a poor kind – but they have cold coca cola, and don't overcharge me for it. The rest, irregular as it is, I know it quite well and I thoroughly enjoy it. Between the Glandon and the Croix-de-Fer the roadside is crammed with British cars and (mostly) motor homes and caravans: the next day the Tour will pass over this road (and two English, Wiggins and Froome, are leading the classement général). Also a lot of cyclists there! I make a few pictures of the other (i.e. east) side – indeed copies of earlier years – and on the way back/down I make the small sidestep to the Col du Glandon, where they are also making preparations for the oncoming Tour.

View from Croix-de-Fer

View over Lac de Grand-Maison

Another view over Lac de Grand-Maison

Me before the Barrage de Grand-Maison

26 (!) years earlier ....

And then the nice descent for the umpteenth (sixth?) time, along the lake, a déjà-vu picture of myself with the dam in the background, into the forest, around the collapsed mountain, and the steep, almost straight part down to the lower lake. Nice! From Allemont back to the Romanche I have to struggle against a strong head wind, which much to my surprise becomes a tail wind after I have turned left at Rochetaillée. Time enough for a Leffe in a café in Le Bourg, and still time for forty pages of my catchy ladies novel. Owing to the wind (and thunderstorms later) dinner is inside tonight, and we are with seven people, six of which French, which makes it much harder for this Dutchman to follow the conversation. Before I go to sleep I ask for an earlier breakfast because of the rather demanding stage tomorrow. Notwithstanding the thunderstorms I sleep – again – really well.


11-07-2012     LE BOURG D'OISANS → LANSLEBOURG,   distance 128 km,   dénivelée 2700 m

Alas, the owner of the gîte isn't there at the appointed time; luckily he arrives not much later. It has however been a very nice place to stay three nights. The weather forecast is good, but in the morning clouds fill the valley. After seven flat kms the road starts getting up after Le Clapier and I gain some 250 meters till the Barrage du Champion. Along the lake the road is almost even, the clouds clear away, the road is much quieter than I had feared, the scenery is gorgeous; what a nice, sunny morning! In La Grave I buy a headlamp for the tunnel on the road to the Col du Sanetsch; the views up to the Meijer glacier in the south are spectacular; the slope remains easy going all the time till the Col du Lautaret. Time for a (windy) break, with coffee and bread and cheese.

Misty morning   (and heavily loaded bike)

At the Col du Lautaret

Clear view onto the Meije glacier   (slight abuse of chronological order)

Next the steepest phase to the Galibier, but apart from the last km – when I'm at the end of a 40 km climb – not very difficult – I start making pictures while cycling (at less than 10 km/h). With the top in view, that last km is also easily managed. On the pass I have a chat with a Dutch ('Alpe d'HuZes') girl waiting for a friend (possibly also her father; when he arrives I remember having started from the Lautaret shortly after him). During the descent a few (more) pictures (the first since 1996, before digital photography) of the great environment – not so many, because now I do have to stop (brake!) to make them. In Valloire it is warm, and so are the few climbing kms to the Col du Télégraphe. The descent from this pass, through the pine forest, is not very spectacular, but fun nevertheless, rather easy going, since most curves are smooth. I can already see the straight A43 going east along the Arc.

Not far from the Col du Galibier		Not long after the Col du Galibier
A little further down		Hairpins around Plan Lachat
Descent from Col du Télégraphe   (deep down: St.-Michel-de-M.)		'Good-old' Lanslebourg

In St.Maurice-de-Maurienne I'm back on the level of Le Bourg d'Oisans and have to go up almost 700 meters again. With a look at the time I decide to postpone the next ravitaillement till Modane. Now that the A43 is open (since some time between 1996 and 2012), the (old) D-road is not quite so bad anymore.

It is warm though, today, and the countdown till Modane stops one village earlier, when I spot an intermarchée of some sort. I devour the newly purchased eatables and drinkables on a little warm place/playground in Fourneaux. After Modane the scenery becomes nicer (most traffic has disappeared into the Tunnel du Fréjus), and the road goes up a little steeper for a while. Also I fear I'll need my raincoat for the first time, but the short shower right after Termignon, during the second steeper part, is just refreshing on this warm afternoon. The last – down going – kilometers till the 'good old' youth hostel in Lanslebourg (I stayed there in '86, '87, '89, '94, '96 and 2001) the sky already clears again. It feels like being in Lanslebourg for the first time; I cannot remember anything! The only thing I remember about the location of the youth hostel is that you could clearly hear the Arc – but that is not much help. It appears that the youth hostel lies more in Lanslevillard than in Lanslebourg, not far from the start of the climb to the Mont-Cénis. Well, when I finally get there (after asking directions three times!) something comes back. Like in Le Vert the staff is not the same as it used to be, but the old mère et père aubergiste drop by for an apéritif. It's a shame there are so few guests. Dinner is great: chicken curry and tart aux ... pommes (I think). I share a four-bedded room with a German (a former politician for the communist party) and an Italian (who only speaks Italian, and of whom I only get to see the head).

   

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12-07-2012     LANSLEBOURG → MOLLIESOULAZ,   distance 133 km,   dénivelée 2900 m

Today another test – almost every day is a test! – with two climbs of more than 1000 m up. At breakfast (alas, as late as 8 o'clock; in former years I would have been better prepared better and have made my own!) I'm joined by the friendly 'politician', who hasn't had many holidays during his career, always on the road to win new souls, and who now is doing a bit of cycling on his e-bike. Today he wants to see the Tour de France pass by. When I leave the youth hostel (for the last time ever?) the mountains are in the clouds, but the road is already in the sun, and during the first hours it will only get better. Right from Lanslevillard I meet the first climb of some six km to a (not 'the') Col de la Madeleine. Everything looks perfect, which I try to capture in two pictures from the 'top'.

'A' Col de la Madeleine

Same spot, looking backwards

Follows an even stretch till Bonneval-sur-Arc with during the last kms a nice view high up to the first hairpin bend. A little before Bonneval the countdown to the Col de l'Iséran starts: 13 km (alt: 1795 m). At the first hairpin bend I take a last short stop to take in the nice views and a few photographs. From there I creep up slowly – more slowly than before – enjoying the beautiful environment and finally after a last (steepest) km of 10% reach the top.

Beautiful morning; rather quiet road	The Arc on the way to Bonneval
Panorama over Bonneval	Not long before the Col de l'Iséran
Le toit de cet expédition	Shortly after the Col de l'Iséran
View down onto Lac de Chévril	About the same view zoomed in onto Val d'Isere

I put on two extra layers, as there is quite a cool wind up there, and in the refuge/shop have a coke. During the descent I am amazed to see so many quite young oncoming cyclists. Val d'Isère as it first comes into view is nice, but when I get there I find it's not my favorite town. However, I'm the last customer before lunch break in a Casino supermarchée and have lunch on a sunny pelouse, so today I'm quite happy there. Warmed up I descend further through the many (ouch!) tunnels along the lake (Lac de Chévril), and descend deeper and faster to Ste-Foy-en-Tarentaise, to Séez and – hardly down anymore – to busy/warm Bourg Saint-Maurice. After I've found the right track to the Cormet de Roselend I have my water bottle filled in a restaurant and fill me up with the remainder of the purchases from Val d'Isère. From here to the pass: 19 km. The start is easy, 4-7 %, then a first steeper part with many lacets (not nice in the descent, as I remember). I ride up in high spirits; I do feel at home here! The road flattens off, there's a nice view to the right into the Vallée des Glaciers, the road gets steeper and the wind also makes it hard work to get to the pass, for the tenth time ever!

Self portrait while riding	Back 'home'
Shortly after Cormet de Roselend	Lac de Roselend again

Not much time to celebrate this 'historic' event – also there's neither shop nor restaurant around – but the descent to Beaufort-sur-Doron is quite a treat too! It would be nice to go around the whole lake once – walking that should be, I guess. From the Col du Méraillet it is a delicious ride, good bends, good road surface, no villages, perfect! I had hoped to be in Beaufort at six (due to the late start), and I arrive half an hour before schedule.

So I have time for a beer! What rests is 9 km slightly downhill along the Doron, and 5 km up to Molliesoullaz. Quite severely up, and also a bit longer as the gîte appears to be situated above the village. However, today's distance ends up exactly as I measured it using Google maps at home. I have quite had it when eventually I reach the (hanging bicycle) sign of the gîte (and don't miss on the right/north a nice view onto the Mont Blanc!). Albeit the bicycle sign the gîte is quite full with randonneurs à pied, I'm the only one of a different species. Dinner is quite lively, apart from the young lady whom I end up face to face with – but it seems that she is suffering from a severe sore throat. The dormitory is quite lively as well. I'm not bothered by the sounds of sleeping people and sleep wonderfully myself. I'm not the only one who goes to bed early; eleven or so others join me.

Today the longest stage of the whole trip, and the only one without a 'first category' climb. I start together with the couple that will take the sick girl to a doctor. The Mont Blanc is hidden in/behind the clouds. For six km we stay close, and as at the junction with the D925 they hesitate which direction to take, I overtake them and turn left, and then right after 2 km to start the appetizer of the day, the (small) Col de la Forclaz. A short, steep, nice climb, a little rain, and a steep descent over a tiny road through the woods. This day I have feared because of the large sections over busy roads, mainly around Chamonix (I vaguely remember some trouble there, very vaguely, as I was there only once, in 1986.) The D1212 is not a nice road indeed; it is busy, and it also seems going up all the time – and I have such a long distance to cover still! Indeed, it's about 700 meters up from Ugine to Mégève, where I have a stop on the pavement in front of a supermarchée, and because of that miss most of the (little) rain today. Follows a descent to St.-Gervais-les-Bains, which I had first hoped to reach via the Col du Joly, before people talked me out of that.

The (first) glacier of the Mont-Blanc I set my eyes on is rather gray, but then, it is also rather a gray morning. First I take a wrong turn, and then, following the signs for Chamonix I'm led to a highway with a 'no cycling' sign – I've missed the inconspicuous sign for the cyclists' alternative, an alternative that holds some unexpected (and unwanted!) extra work: first I have to climb to Servoz, and when – halfway between St.-Gervais and Chamonix – I get down to the N205 I have to cross it and go (severely) up again to Vaudagne. I curse the mayors of St.-Gervais and Chamonix (compose an angry letter to them in my head).

Descent from Col de la Forclaz

End of the fun

Chamonix and one of the glaciers above

When I finally reach Chamonix and a good-looking restaurant (well, the plates look good – and from the terrace there's also a nice view onto another glacier) the kitchen is already closed. Further on there are many alternatives from which I don't choose the quick one (Turkish pizza) but the one with the soft chairs (and the tandoori chicken menu of the day). It's past three when I mount my bike again; at least half an hour behind my (worst) schedule, with 70 km to go to Sion, and the Col de la Forclaz in between. Well, that one is not so hard (the elevation gain is only 500 m). The first phase, till the Col des Montets offers hardly any difficulty; the wind also helps. When, after the Swiss boundary, the road turns south-east I have to work harder, especially the last 2 km to the ('big') Col de la Forclaz. I don't consult my watch, do make a self-portrait with the col sign, and speed down. What a descent! In '86 from Martigny I remember it was quite an exercise - that was the étape till La Clusaz where a met my cycling mate Art (who alas couldn't arrange to fly over from Minnesota to join me): long straight stretches, steep!, especially the final part through the Rhône vineyards. Rushing down I set my highest speed of the trip: 72 km/h (at least!).

Another glacier

View onto Martigny

In Martigny a church clock tells me it is (only) 5:30 p.m. I am very lucky with the wind too, or rather, with the gale, coming from the west. Halfway I have my first encounter with a Swiss: an apricot seller at a fruit stall. He doesn't want to sell me less than one kilogram; how stupid! The Swiss are really not my friends! (Of course I only mean some of the Swiss I've met during two or three holidays!) After this trying day even with this favorable storm the last 30 km take me 75 minutes to get to the youth hostel, which is rather easily found, next to the railway station. I have made the bookings for my four nights in Switzerland (all in youth hostels) from home (as I didn't want to get confronted with sky high hotel prices). It looks like I have a room of my own, but after I have done some shopping and have made me some dinner in the quite busy salle de séjour – which borders on a garden – the other three beds are occupied as well by two small children and their Dad (Mum and one or more children are in another room, I learn later). There is an opportunity to go onto the Internet, but why should I.

Last evening + last night it rained; this morning it still has the tendency to rain. The program for today is overloaded, with two hors catégorie climbs. I decide I'll try the Col du Sanetsch, the higher of the two (with 1750m up the hardest classified after the Mortirolo), or, in fact, just see how far I can come. Looking back I can say this is one of the nicest days. The road is still wet when I try to find the right way out of Sion, i.e. the road to Savièse. This road looks a bit like the descent to Martigny: the slopes surrounding the Rhône valley are quite steep, and below a certain altitude they are filled with vinyeards. The road to Savièse goes up like 6-7% I should guess. The road is still wet and in fact I'm amazed I stay dry during the first hour; the clouds do seem to break open though. I pass several villages, none of which is called Savièse.

The start

The sky clears!

Still 'only' 26 (?) km to the top

In Chandolin I choose the Route du Belvédère because that's the one that goes up most. Wrong idea, a bit stupid also, since the other road is called Route du Sanetsch, and to my surprise – I'm not that well informed – it starts with a descent. It goes down until a tunnel – not the one for which I bought the head light – and then the long climb starts – (another) 20 km with an average of about 7.5%. – It starts off quite rude! No risk of rain anymore, time is on my side too. It's hard work but it's absolutely fun! Michelin indicates there's a stretch of 15%, which I get by without stops (nor photographs). I pass several colourful restaurants and every now and then a bus stop – the Swiss Postbus system is amazing. When I get above the trees there's a part with cascades on all sides, and I get higher and higher (without taking any drugs!).   When I take a rest two hikers ask me about the route they have to take; how would I know?   The environment gets empty and rude, for THE tunnel I put on my head light – afterwards it wasn't really that necessary – and I can't stop making photos. What a great road!

Rough ride up

Shortly before the 15% part

First cascade from afar		Another cascade from nearby
GLORIOUS ride up!		During a short break
'The' tunnel		The cows are black, the end is near

And finally I reach the highest point. The col sign is the bus stop. Having skipped the other climb, I have decided I will continue till the Lac de Sénin, 4 km further (and 200 m lower); time is on my side today.

Between the col and the lake

At the lake

Between the lake and the col

So the way back starts with another climb. And then a dazzling long descent with terrific views. I come across the two hikers of the way up and they inform me that the white peaks I see clearly in the south (on the other side of the Rhone valley) – of which I have taken several pictures, one with a Postbus in front, another one with a Swiss cow – are the ''Dame Blanche'' and the Matterhorn. One of the guys is from Savièse; how come he didn't know his way?   (Back 'home' I see on the map that it is the Dent Blanche.☺)

One of the tunnels

EXHILARATING

Dent Blanche + Matterhorn

DESCENT

FROM COL DU SANETSCH

After the cascades I quit making pictures, but of course keep taking in the gorgeous scenery. The Rhône valley with its vineyards comes into view, Sion, the road to the Barrage de Grande Dixence (the other challenge for today, now still on my to-climb-list ☹).   Not before I'm back in room 23 do I have a look at the time: 4:30 p.m. My original plan had been way too ambitious. I discover that after my gloves (Col de Morte), hair gel (Bourg d'Oisans) I have also lost my red T-shirt (probably in Lanslebourg). I have a late lunch in the garden, walk over to a woman whom I saw arriving on her bike, but no, she'd rather relax (with her iPhone or other device – and she's not the only one that is claimed by his or her electronic device whatever. So sad!). I call my youngest daughter who will be off for two weeks of youth camps, and I am under the spell of my book. Coming back in room 23 – to lie down with a book – I notice it is crammed with three heavily loaded Scottish mountaineers, just descended from the environment of the Matterhorn – bad weather in the morning – and flying home tomorrow. They seem nice, so I try to invite myself for dinner with them, to which they agree. Dinner is nice indeed, with very varied live music, easy conversation and incredibly expensive pizzas. Afterwards on the way back a beer in a pub – it's their last night (and I suppose they haven't seen many pubs during their stay high up).

The good weather is back, I notice when I have an early breakfast (no signs of the Scots). This is supposed to be an easy stage, with only one climb, which I hope to do 'without luggage', so maybe there'll be time for a swim in the youth hostel/Ferienzentrum. However, I know, never underestimate an étape! The wind/storm is the same as two days ago, with which I am very fortunate indeed. I fear another crazy detour when I have to get off the main road, but that is only for two km or so, and obviously because of a tunnel. The 56 km till Brig are thus easily covered. I like the blue signs with the big names; Furka, Simplon, Nufenen, ..., sometimes for the pass, sometimes for a tunnel. Expensive shopping in Visp – I can't remember anything of the village which I passed twice in 1988. Shortly before Brig the road becomes a freeway. I have to stay away from it and I hope I get on the right track up to the Simplon Pass (and that I'm not going up rather steeply and find out I took the wrong turn).

Vinyards along the Rhône

Where to leave part of my freight, that’s the question (I have to be sure to find it back easily, and I know myself). I decide I'll drop it at the village Hazel, just after the point where I will be back on the main road (which must be open for cyclists then, mustn't it?!), but this road passes the village on a higher level, so that's not an option. I notice a house/hut, carry my bike over the guard rail and hesitate: there is a car, but there seems not to be any living soul around. Anyway, I don't want to carry my entire luggage another 1300m up, so I stow away two panniers in an inconspicuous corner in the garden. An oncoming biker, who apparently knows the area, advises me to take the old road – the 'new' road does feel like a freeway indeed – and I start following his advice, which feels nice, until it starts descending, descending. This descending goes on too long to feel right, so I turn around and carry my bike back over the guard rail. The main road is more or less a long viaduct as it stands out from the mountain side. Until the first bend the wind is not so favorable, but the slope is okay. And stays okay the whole way. I pass a beautiful high bridge (where it takes trouble to keep to the right side of the road because of the wind). The last part is less interesting, as it is 'roofed' for kms against water/snow(/stones?) from above.

To and from Simplonpass

Long viaduct along the slope	Beautiful high bridge
'Roofed' road	More 'roofed' road
At the top	View to the 'other' side
On the way down	View onto the ... Breithorn?

View back to the long viaduct

Without trouble I make it to the top. The descent – with very nice views during the highest part (Nesthorn? Breithorn?, Eggishorn?) – is thrilling, indeed, I can almost catch up with the cars (probably I go faster here than two days ago, but I have no attention for my speedometer). Back along the Rhône, from Naters, I make a last picture of the road which stands as a long viaduct out from the mountain. Sixteen km separate me from Fiesch, horizontally – vertically about 400m. It won't be an early arrival, even more so since I do need a break. Sometimes when you need a restaurant ...   I leave the road in search of one in Grengiols, and when I reach a house with a water tap in the garden I'm quite satisfied with that; I'm tired! I fill my bottle and a few hundred meters back to the main road stuff myself up with baguette avec fromage. I make two pictures of a train, one high up, one close by, and later on realize it must have been the same train. Follows a climb of 2 km, and the remaining part till Fiesch (pronounced as if it had two syllables) is even. The Ferienzentrum consists of several buildings; I have difficulty finding the reception.

Goal(s?) for tomorrow

The swimming pool is closed on Sunday, but it's close to 7 anyway, dinner time. The youth hostel is modern, three-star, but sterile. Dinner is a bit anonymous too, but the food is okay. I find a nice, quiet reading corner, but I'm chased away by television lovers. Luckily there's another such corner on another floor, where I can enjoy a soft bench and silence. I have a chat with Enya, which isn't good for my night's rest: she found a reminder/threatening letter from my mortgage bank; they already sent someone from a collection agency, the wolves. This youth hostel isn't fully booked by far. In the morning I swap my Maigret for an English novel.

Place for tonight

I'm the first to have breakfast in the spacious dinner room on the 5th floor – there is an elevator, and it's old-fashioned/slow/dangerous. When I get ready to leave: no sign of Michael (I'm neither surprised nor disappointed). To my dismay after yesterday's evening rush hour today I also have to experience morning rush hour in Bellinzona, where the temperature is already above 20 degrees. The preamble to the Passo San Bernardino (with according to Salite d'Europa almost the same difficulty as the Col du Sanetsch!) is very long and slow, and very green as well. During the first 22 km, at least till Lostallo, nothing happens (as regards climbing).

View from my room

What's in store and what's not

Long relaxed (and beautiful) preamble

At a certain moment I can see the road(s) going up very far before me, and quite high. Not much later comes the hardest part: 950m up in 13 km (and halfway one flat km). Because of the freeway, that goes into a tunnel, the secondary road doesn't get much traffic, which is good! At the 'local maximum' 1.5 km before San Bernardino you can say the pass is in the pocket.

There it gets going

Water along the road

More water after San Bernardino

That village seems a good place to have a rest; I see restaurants, I see a Denner (the Swiss 'Casino'), I see a bench, I see a water point, and when I have stuffed myself up a bit, and relaxed my muscles, I see a cyclist appear, just as heavily loaded as I am. However, he needs a rest, I have still a long distance to go, so I don't wait for him. The remaining seven km to the pass are indeed less severe than what's already behind me, and the last part, along a lake is even flat. It's a nice climb, but I would not put it on the list of 'the 15 most beautiful roads of the world' (as some people do). The descent to the other side is even less interesting: the road is like a staircase against the slope, going down to the valley of the Hinterrhein.

Four scenes around the San Bernardino Pass

It is a spectacular sight to see the tunnel spitting out cars from the mountain. I follow this river for about 10 km, passing the village of Nufenen, by the way, until Splügen. I have already seen where I will be going, up again!, when I set myself on a doorstep, in the shade, in the village last mentioned. I start the climb simultaneously with a runner. We have the same speed, and after the first bend, he turns left, off-road, following a current. I won't see him again till the top, where I see him taking the Postbus back! For me the first part of the climb is steep, then it slows down a bit, and then comes a 'staircase' as the one from the San Bernardino, which also gives 4 km of more than 8 %.

Four scenes around the Splügen Pass

Around the top – which I reach at 4:15 p.m. – the scenery is beautiful in a rough way. Further down, around the Lago Montespluga, I find it a bit boring. There are tunnels where cars want to overtake me; stupid Italians (in this respect). I have vague memories of the climb from the south in 1988: very warm in the beginning, never ending, and a passage with 10 tornanti almost right above each other. That passage comes shortly after Pianazzo, and also contains innumerous tunnels.

Molti tornanti                        

Till the end very steep and reasonably steep stretches alternate, until I've finally descended almost 1800 m till Chiavenna, around 6 p.m. I find the Tourist Information at the railway station, an end station. Close by there's a 'hostel'. Close by means 500 m over a very steep cobblestone road, where I have to walk and push my bike. It is a funny place, nicely located a little above the town. The people seem a bit at a loss to have a customer who doesn't speak Italian, though I understand a woman from Germany has arrived just before me. When I'm putting my things in my three-bedded room, which I don't have to share (and the price is less than € 20,-), I think I hear someone 'from the house' talking to this German woman, so I see if I can invite her to have dinner, but it appears to be someone else (who apologizes she's too tired to go into town). I decide to buy some salad, some dessert, and a breakfast for tomorrow in a supermarket, and eat a pizza on a terrace. On the terrace someone comes over and invites me to join her: it's Ulrike, 'the woman from the hostel'. She's also cycling, making a trip of three weeks through (mostly) Austria and Switzerland. She also appears to have studied mathematics, so there's enough to talk about. 'At home' I complete my dinner, while she sets her brakes, and later in the evening I enjoy the soft couch in the nice living room, for the first time listen to part of the 7 gB of music that I put into my mp3 player, while I write several pages in my journal.